Saturday, June 27, 2009

REACHING THE PINNACLE


Dearest Family and Friends

57 Cumberland Street, San Francisco CA 94110

Phone Number: +1 415 738 2112

May Highlights

  • Buying Nothing

  • Wedding Anniversary

  • Pinnacles National Monument

  • Family Fun

  • Birding

    Buying Nothing


    Month Five saw me start to get twitchy for more clothes. Somewhat ironic that just when I decide to forego purchases, all stores have sales of the century and bargain basement prices. There are some good second-hand shops in the ‘hood, which I pass temptingly often. The fix received at the DLG clothes swap in March has definitely worn off, and I was delighted to find a D&G skinny rib T-shirt in a pile of cast-offs in the street, which, after washing, is a great addendum to the wardrobe. Shame, where art thou?

    I splurged vicariously by buying clothes, puzzles and books for Esme instead. I was horrified to find that while the puzzles and books were ‘pre-loved’ as I thought, one of the dresses was a hefty $40 (actually reduced by 50%) a brand-new designer dress. Definitely the Transgression of the Month. Closely followed by losing a library book so had to pay the full penalty plus replacement cost, which could be said to be buying a book. And the $1 spent in an act of forgetfulness for a checklist of birds at The Pinnacles, that it turned out I only wanted to look at for 1 minute - doh!

    Debra and I swapped picture frames for baby clothes so I’ve been able to add to our photo wall. And a complicated long-chain swap has seen us acquire a roll of blackboard cloth and chalk for Esme from Amy H, and we have to donate something to Jen Daniel in return.

    A colleague got married so I donated to the charity of their choice; the pillow cases tore again and the Chinese seamstress thought me barking mad when I insisted on mending over discarding. Colman has decided he buys the candles so he restocked on those.

    Music

    New music is also missed. Albeit to add to a groaning collection of CDs we don’t listen to anyway. So it was a great joy to go to see Fleetwood Mac live on their Unleashed Tour at the Oracle Arena in Oakland with Adam and Jen and friends – in effect billed as their Greatest Hits album live.

    The omens were unpromising. The Arena is huge and inevitably soulless, hordes of empty seats greeted our eyes from our lofty vantage point near the back. Yes it was a thrill to see the Legends (Fleetwood, McVie, Buckingham and Nicks) looking their quintessential selves respectively larger than life, self-effacing hiding under a flat cap, black leathered whippet-thin energetic, long blonde hair draped seductively over black shawl. But expectations were low that this bunch of sexagenarians could deliver the really rousing show required for such a large space.

    Nearly three hours later we were delighted to have been proved utterly wrong. Wild-eyed and grinning, with white hair in a pony tail and beard, red-pixie shod Mick Fleetwood provided an anarchic backdrop with his manic yet metronomic drumming. His old mucker John McVie did his best to not be seen on stage, shielding his face from the audience and not uttering a word; he received a great tribute from Mick at the end.

    And the stars of the show didn’t disappoint. Channelling his inner teen, Lindsey Buckingham leapt, twirled, blew kisses, beat his chest and played guitar in a frenzy on the solos. His long-time love did have to retire backstage for a little lie down and shawl change after each song but all the Stevie Nicks trademarks were on display: boots, top hat, long gloves, beads hanging from the mike stand, tambourine, red dress for the 2nd half and a gold dress specially for Gold-Dust Woman when she spun hypnotically around the stage; her voice and beauty undiminished. Both relished talking about the past, when they met in the Bay area and performed with Hall of Fame stars such as Joplin, and alluded several times to the stormy years they’ve all endured together. "We have a convoluted and complex emotional history, and we've been together a long time, which works in our favour," he said. "We've taken long breaks, but every time we get back together it's different, but there's always forward motion."

    The audience spent half the concert on its feet, not a dry eye in the house when Buckingham and Nicks came out together holding hands, and when they rested their heads on each other’s shoulders. Hit followed hit: Buckingham performed Big Love as a solo acoustic, he and Nicks supplied beautiful harmonies on Gypsy, Rhiannon, Second Hand News and Go Your Own Way. Noone there will ever forget Fleetwood’s extraordinary high-energy drummer's solo during the encore section, which finished fittingly with Don’t Stop. The audience went wild. So Silver Spring was played as an unexpected second encore, much to their delight.

    The evening proved again that experience is worth more than another Thing to add to one’s collection of Things. And I saw 2 gigs in 2 months to boast about seeing for years to come. The old ones really are the best…

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    Wedding Anniversary


    Bay to Breakers

    Sunday 17th May was our 4th wedding anniversary and this coincided with the 98th annual Bay to Breakers race where elite athletes, amateur runners and drunken revellers in fancy dress sprint and stagger 12km from the Embarcadero through the city and Golden Gate Park to the Pacific.

    We met up with Adam and Jen and some piratical looking friends after a gruelling route march from our house to make the rendezvous in time. At only 10am it was clear it was going to be a hot day. We then hustled along the course to catch up with the rabble at the rear who were in all manner of costumes and rolling drunk at this early hour. It reminded us of a mini Notting Hill Carnival but with no whistles, less thumping bass and less drugs, and very random outfits. Some were very inventive. There was a group just out of the shower clad only in soap and towels, another lot had Tutankhamen heads on.

    It probably wasn’t the best place to bring a child of 20 months. Esme coped extraordinarily well with the noise, crowds and being forced to be in the stroller for 2 hours, staring at the throngs around her. We made it as far as a house party which was too loud to venture inside, and the three of us danced on the kerb, Esme happy to frolic in the gutter with discarded beer cans and Lord knows what else at her feet.

    We left after noon, now very hot and getting late. We couldn’t get a taxi or a bus for love nor money so walked to Armani’s, who was hosting a trunk sale (where clothiers and accessory designers display and sell their wares to invited guests), on the more pressing basis that there would be food and a loo there. There was a woman selling wonderful sculpted felt hats and Colman was dragooned into buying one for me as an anniversary present, as I couldn’t buy it myself. It is a fabulous hat, as yet unworn as it is a winter item, thank you darling.

    We made it home exhausted having walked all day in the heat, too late for Esme’s nap. The afternoon disappeared and suddenly we were scrambling to get suited, booted and everything ready for our night away. Jonathan arrived, so did the taxi, and I was still throwing things into the suitcase.

    We were barely 10 minutes in the cab when Jonathan phoned to say she was asleep, totally shattered from her huge day. We arrived at swanky Hotel Vitale on the Embarcadero to find they had given us a Circular Suite, with wonderful views over the Bay Bridge and Ferry Building. A bottle of champagne was on ice, no less than 2 notes wishing us a happy anniversary, and a bed decorated with petals in a heart.

    Restaurant of the Month

    No time for romance, we rushed out to dinner at Aqua, which boasts 2 Michelin stars for its Cal seafood with French hints under Executive Chef Laurent Manrique’s direction. The restaurant was elegantly polished in all departments – white gloved waiters, perfect dish presentation, huge artistic displays of vegetation. It was about now, sitting in the air-conditioned draught, the limitations of my outfit became apparent. A sweltering day had given way to windy and cold downtown, I was wearing a maxi sun dress with thin shawl. Each delicate portion of exquisitely prepared fish and seafood failed to warm the cockles in quite the manner required. Colman was luckier in his menu selections than I, and also indulged in a nightcap, so he hugged me for warmth all the way back to our suite.

    Hotel Vitale

    Colman had requested a ‘massage’ when we returned. We took time to admire the excellent view from our love seat, then both remembered we had forgotten our contact lens cases and glasses. I had also forgotten any underwear for the next day plus make up bag and had a meeting at 9.15am with the Sales and Marketing Managers! Next we failed utterly to operate the black out blinds realising this was quite an issue as the sun would rise slap bang into our panoramic windows at 5am. As it was now past 11pm, hastily we took out our lenses and stored them in glasses of water, then hunted round the room like blind mice trying to find out how to turn off the trendy bedside table lights to no avail, we had to leave them until Colman ripped the plug out of the wall at 2am. I was cleaning my teeth ready for bed when I heard a gentle snore – sure enough Colman was out – no ‘massage’ for him tonight – and I wasn’t going to wake him knowing we’d be up with the dawn.

    So we were, and put our lenses in at 5am in order to see the magnificent sight of the glow from the sun streaking the clouds salmon pink above a massive container ship as it slipped under the Bay Bridge. We indulged in our deep soaking tub with a view, and then ate a stunning breakfast – the wild mushroom scramble was superb – before Colman headed off to work and I tried to make myself look professional with no bra, no make up (Ladies, I’m here to advise: don’t try the ball point pen as a replacement for eye-liner as it doesn’t adhere and makes your lids puffy) and over the top jewellery from the night before for my meeting. Luckily they signed the contract; I wrote up the review and they are now one of the flagship hotels in i-escape’s just-launched California Collection. All in all a memorable wedding anniversary!

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    Expedition of the Month


    The Pinnacles

    Our Adventure of the Month was a Surprise for Colman over Memorial Day weekend. We arrived at Pinnacles National Monument at dusk, time enough to set up camp, meet up with Rob, Jecca, Billy and Luca Lawson and their friends, You Mon, Mary and Liam.

    The Pinnacles are the spectacular remains of an ancient volcano that has been wrenched asunder by the San Andreas Fault (the other portion is now 195 miles to the SE) and shaped over millennia by heat, frost, water and wind. This unique set of circumstances has produced massive monoliths, sheer-walled canyons and talus caves, formed when falling boulders wedged into deep narrow gorges. The park has over 26,000 acres (16k are designated wilderness) of rolling Chaparral hills, ramparts, crags, rivers and valleys, and fabulous wildlife.

    We had an amazing weekend. The weather was almost too warm (barely a cloud in the sky) once the morning fog lifted. Nights were very chilly (our first night had us bemoaning that we couldn’t zip our sleeping bags together), Esme slept like a dream in her travel cot erected inside the tent each night.

    On the Saturday we did the Old Pinnacles Trail, a 5.3 mile round trip, which took us along Chalone Creek through riparian woods edged with yellowed grasses, with towering deep auburn rock formations framing our horizons, to Balconies Cave. This classic talus cave led on and on in and out of the pitch dark (we brought torches), and we all (especially the boys) had great fun scrambling over the boulders.

    Here we stopped for lunch before returning the same route home. Esme tried valiantly to snooze in the backpack to no avail. I constantly kept my eyes on the distant crags, binoculars at the ready, was that a Condor? No, always Turkey Vultures wheeling and soaring instead.

    A leisurely afternoon at the campsite basking in the sun followed, You Mon and Mary produced a yummy dinner of noodles, tofu and chicken.

    We huddled around the campfire for warmth and good cheer after the sun went down and the temperature plummeted.

    On Sunday we drove to Bear Gulch and did the first ¼ of the Condor Gulch/High Peaks Loop up as far as the Overlook where we all posed for family portraits and admired the long views back down the valley and up to the red crags.

    Rob had learned a few tricks from a ranger about catching lizards with a long stem of grass fashioned into a noose at the end, so several (unsuccessful) lizard-tickling stops were made. Colman saw a snake slithering into the bushes, later identified as a California Kingsnake.

    Looking up towards the spectacular High Peaks, searching vainly for condors, into the heart of the Pinnacles rock formations, whetted our appetites for the whole Loop – one day we’ll return without kids or with older more willing ones to complete it.

    Luncheon was taken back down at the poetically named Bear Gulch Day Use Area, while Stellar’s Jays and cheeky squirrels tried to steal our food, to Esme’s squeaking joy.

    Then we took the Moses Spring-Rim Trail Loop which took us over the top of Bear Gulch Cave (closed due to nesting Townsend’s Big-eared Bats, one of which we saw fluttering above the boulders to our excitement).

    This walk was superb, despite the hordes on the trail, nothing could diminish the majesty of the rock formations – you can almost see big pillowy lava flows draped down the slopes – and the excitement of walking through semi-caves, under huge overhanging ledges, atop lookouts, beside dripping waterfalls.

    Halfway through the walk we rested by Bear Gulch Reservoir fringed by reeds and some coarse sandy beaches, where we saw water snakes and Esme and I saw a tiny frog (she said ribbet, ribbet on cue).

    The rocks were smothered in brightly coloured lichens.

    A really brilliant walk – perfect for the boys, packed with wildlife, views and rugged rocks.

    We got back to the campsite and saw deer walking across the hillside. We all remarked how perfect a day it had been. The cherry on the icing on the cake would have been a Condor sighting, or a successful lizard capture.

    And then Rob ‘Condor-Eyes’ Lawson said, “I think those are condors.” I dumped Esme on the ground unceremoniously and tore back to our car for binoculars and birdbook. Yes it was! A group of three floating high above us, hardly seeming to flap a feather, their yellow wing patches clearly visible. We stared at them until our necks ached.

    Such a special moment! I had reached the pinnacle of birding ambition! Jecca was in the (lengthy) queue for the (poor) showers so missed them. On her return we were recounting our sightings, when high above us floated another group of three condors!!! We couldn’t believe our luck.

    The boys hung out with Esme before dinner, trying to verse her in the art of baseball throwing and catching. She valiantly tried to get the glove on but had better success with their bike helmets.

    That night the Lawsons cooked up a feast including a warm potato salad, and bade a fond farewell to You Mon, Mary and Liam who returned to Burlingame. After the kids were in bed, the remaining adults sat round the fire putting the world to rights keeping as toasty as possible – boy did it get chilly once the sun went down!

    On our last morning, I got up early for a private birdwatch and walk around the campsite – the phenomenal dawn chorus had been calling to me all weekend. I saw rabbits hopping across the sandy paths into the brush, plus quail, thrashers and woodpeckers. This is a close up of an Acorn Woodpecker's pockmarked granary tree.

    We struck camp, sad to leave this wonderful wildlife-filled wilderness (despite the worst camp facilities we’d yet found in California – no doors on the toilets nor lights in the ablution block).


    Just as we were about to leave, Rob succeeded in capturing one of the ubiquitous lizards with his blade of grass! We all marvelled at its blue tummy and unblinking eye.

    Thanks everybody for a wonderful weekend!!!

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    Family Outings and Events


    We enjoyed various day trips in May. To Palo Alto to visit Danny and Akemi and took in a local kids museum/farm followed by an early supper.




    To beautiful Stinson Beach for Steve’s Surprise Birthday, on a gloriously hot day;


    it was great to meet more friends of the Kirsh family.

    The kids all had a great time running around the beach and foreshore, Colman took the opportunity to kayak in Bolinas Bay.





    Uncle Pat came to visit from the Left Coast - great to catch up.


    We met up with most of the Lawsons again at the 4th annual Maker Faire in San Mateo, the world’s largest DIY festival, celebrates the Geek in all its weird and wonderful manifestations. Robot battleships. Steam powered motorcycles. Bonsai trees. Kite mounted aerial photography. A VW beetle retro-fitted with the body of an enormous steel snail. Noodle making demonstrations. Closed energy systems involving plant walls. Cycle powered fair ground rides (here Billy Lawson is playing guitars). Home made rocket launches. And, of course, beautiful art cars.




    Colman and Morgan hosted a very jolly Wine Night at our place, the theme being sweet/dessert wines. Morgan even prepared a slideshow to accompany Colman's erudite presentation on the subject. The most delicious desserts to accompany the wines were scoffed with glee by all and sundry - a terrific evening.



    San Francisco Classical Voice

    We spent a memorable night in the company of Gordon Getty and around 100 funders of San Francisco Classical Voice, as Colman is on the Board.

    A thank you for recent fundraising efforts organised by our family friend, Mary, the evening included a performance by warm and charismatic pianist Wu Han and and her 13-year old protégé Hilda Huang followed by a three-course dinner and a song for Getty (sung by various board members including Colman) in return for his generous support.

    We couldn’t keep our eyes off the Old Masters, Impressionist paintings and fantastic OTT gilded fireplace in the Getty palatial mansion in Pacific Heights. How the other .001% live!


    LDLG Gathering

    Tracey and Dante kindly hosted the Little Drinking Ladies Group one Sunday – rather cleverly so far all DLG members have only produced girls.

    The Briones household has toys galore and Esme had a fantastic time with her friends, Selena, Zoey, Isis and Noa, and loves pointing them out when seeing their pictures our digital photo frame.

    A very excellent playdate – thanks all!

    We've also been hanging out in the playground with Liz and Alex, who are great fun.



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    Birding is Brilliant


    Presidio Spring Bird Survey

    I responded to a call for volunteers in The Gull, the magazine for the local birding group – Golden Gate Audubon – to help celebrate International Migratory Bird Day by collecting data on the Presidio’s breeding bird species. The Presidio is former army land, now run by the National Park service with mixed commercial and public use, around the south end of the Golden Gate Bridge. Each spring volunteer birdwatchers walk one of 8 designated routes counting species to help document trends in bird populations in the Presidio, and the effect restoration and re-forestation are having on breeding habitat in the park.

    What sounded good was the promise that novice birders would be paired with experienced birders. And I lucked out by getting Josiah who was billed (pardon the pun) as the best birdwatcher in the Bay Area. They weren’t kidding! I was the official record-taker (numbers seen, whether nesting, foraging, singing, displaying, carrying food, flocking etc) and on our 3 hour walk Josiah would hear a fluting whistle or trill and instantly identify Lesser Goldfinch or Pygmy Nuthatch or Wilson’s Warbler. He would find nests by just catching a glimpse of a wing, had an encyclopaedic knowledge of native plantings, and was passionate about habitat restoration. It was a totally fascinating morning.

    Josiah was shocked when I told him that after 6 years of living in my house in London, birdfood out 52 weeks of the year and cats shooed away when possible, I’d seen 12 species in total. That morning we saw/heard 45 different species. Three were Life Birds for me: Red Masked Parakeet ( Aratinga erythrogenys) a famous feral population immortalised in the book and film The Wild Parrots of Telegraph Hill; Tree Swallow, Tachycineta bicolor and Cooper’s Hawk seen in a three-way tussle with a Red-Tailed Hawk and Red-Shouldered Hawk, and later in a tree with a nest.

    The bird seen in biggest numbers was the Cedar Waxwing Accipiter cooperii. When we all reconvened at the end I was very impressed by the skills of the assembled birders: when organiser Andy asked ‘no Hutton’s Vireos seen by anybody then?’, the answer was ‘no but we heard a Mockingbird imitating a Hutton’s Vireo’.

    Bird of the Month

    For once, no contest whatever. Our sightings of the California Condor Gymnogyps californianus, trumped all other contenders – in size (North America’s largest land bird at 140cm, largest wingspan of any bird in N.America, up to 3m), for rarity (on the critically endangered list), and occasion (crowning our fabulous weekend at The Pinnacles). I did also see 3 other Life Birds there – the Northern Flicker Colaptes auratus, California Thrasher Toxostoma redivivum, and the Yellow-billed Magpie Pica nuttalli - the latter two found only in this chaparral country. But the note in the bird book says it all: ‘Condors are so large that they can be mistaken for a small, distant airplane, which possibly occurs more often than they are mistaken for other species of bird.’

    This vulture’s numbers had declined to a mere 22 before all remaining birds were captured in 1987 and put through the most expensive conservation project ever undertaken in the US. Now after intensive captive breeding, there are 322 known to be living including 172 in the wild across California’s coastal mountains and the Grand Canyon with a few in northern Baja. And we saw 6 of them!!!!

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    Mural of the Month

    Stencil of the Month


    Bumper Sticker of the Month

    Environment Stickers Don’t Mean S*!§@! When Seen on Cars

    Love and hugs

    Nadine, Colman and Esme xxx

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  • Sunday, May 17, 2009

    HALLELUJAH

    Dearest Family and Friends

    57 Cumberland Street, San Francisco CA 94110

    Phone Number: +1 415 738 2112


    April Highlights

  • Buying Nothing


  • Leonard Cohen: Life Experience

  • Easter

  • Baja California


    Buying Nothing


    In Month Four my mind-set shifted from the negative (not doing something) to the positive (doing something else). Away from the pursuit of objects towards all those great experiences available to us.

    We celebrated places, people and performance in fine style, and felt fulfilled, busy and enriched.

    The few purchases made this month included sun hats for Esme for Mexico – second hand naturally – and I bought some picture frames to showcase a picture of a peregrine falcon given to Esme by Adam and some images of mine but squared my conscience by acquiring them from the thrift store.


    Gift of the Month


    Tom’s brother, Wes, and his daughter, Milla, came to stay for the Spring Break week and Esme had lots of fun playing with the year older girl. They held hands, and shared toys nicely.



    Wes very very kindly bought Esme a magnetic drawing board, which she loves and has stood us in great stead ever since – drawing is a new favourite activity.

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    Live Experience



    Buying tickets for live performance is allowed. Purists may quibble that one is purchasing a tangible piece of paper, but Music both stirs and soothes the soul. And April saw us celebrate musical endeavour across the spectrum.

    From the ridiculously entertaining - Singalonga Mamma Mia at the Castro Theatre with Armani, which added a plastic blow up microphone to our collection of toys and into which Esme and I serenade each other – to the raw energy of 80s-homage White Lies, who we saw in a downtown live music bar where yoof hang, on the recommendation of our friend Siobhan, proud aunt to the lead singer.

    With Kristan and Steve, we also saw the fabulous fado singer, Mariza, whose energy and stage presence were truly remarkable. Thanks to Alex Sunshine for his top tip!

    Leonard Cohen

    But nothing could ever top the extraordinary privilege that was mine – to see arguably the best songsmith of many a generation two nights in a row – Leonard Cohen.

    Adam had tipped me off that his World Tour (which I’d memorably caught at the Big Chill last summer) was coming to Oakland, and when tickets were released, I was there pressing the refresh button to no avail. The concert seemingly sold out in 30 seconds.

    Distraught, I nearly paid 4x the asking price on various marketplace websites but decided to wait. Sure enough, a second date was added. I was in the playground with Esme 15 minutes before tickets went on sale. I allowed hope to surge forth and propel me, Esme and the stroller home in record time – although was convinced it was a hopeless case. I dumped her at the bottom of the stairs, galloped to the computer, pressed refresh at 10.59 and… amazingly bought 2 tickets! It sold out in 4 minutes. Ecstatic, I told all my friends and when a 3rd concert was added, Jen Daniel managed to secure two seats, as did Julie and James.

    So Colman and I took BART across to Oakland and took time to marvel at the Art Deco splendour of the 1931 Paramount Theatre. Walking into the main lobby, with its gold ornamentations along the walls, curving staircase and glowing light fixtures is like taking a trip back through Old Hollywood. The bathrooms have ante-rooms, love seats and panelling adorn every floor, the carpet was custom-made in the 1970s to the original pattern. We took our seats, stunned by the opulence of the auditorium with its innovative ceiling grid, and stage.

    Leonard Cohen bounded onto stage, dapper in fedora and sober suit, got down on one knee and opened with Dance Me to the End of Love. The musicians are now a year into the tour and the concert was smooth as silk – simple, effective lighting and extraordinary sound quality. The band were phenomenal – every musician an artist and the 3 magnificent backing singers, Sharon Robinson and the sublime Webb Sisters, alone one would have paid good money to see.

    Forced to go on the road at 74 by his manager embezzling all his money while he was in a Buddhist monastery for five years (the courts found in his favour to the tune of $9.5m, he will most likely never see a cent), Leonard showed no signs of the trademark gloom of his early career. Utterly respectful to his fellow travellers who he introduced constantly throughout, every solo treated reverentially, self-deprecating, humble and relaxed, good-humoured, light of heart, and gravel-voiced – his voice now like thick chocolate – he radiated the qualities which speak of the absolute best that humanity can be.

    Through the catalogue they took us by the hand on a magical journey – from The Future to Bird on the Wire to Anthem whose refrain – Ring the Bells, that still can ring Forget your perfect offering. There is a crack, a crack in everything. That’s how the Light gets in – had us both in tears.

    Tower of Song opened the second half, followed by the iconic Suzanne - the first song I ever heard sung on the beach by the fire, and in the first film I worked on – everybody has their story about Suzanne. We cheered Democracy is coming to the USA, Chelsea Hotel, So Long Marianne and Hallelujah for the line ‘I didn’t come to Oakland [substituted every location] to fool ya’.

    The Webb Sisters’ shimmering duet If It Be Your Will was a prayer, and just when I thought he wasn’t going to perform it, the stage soaked blue for Famous Blue Raincoat which had me in tears again, nostalgic for friends especially Jane with whom I’d seen him at the Big Chill.

    The encores kept coming – it was a three-hour set – and he skipped off stage as he had come on. Colman said it was the best concert he’d ever seen. We went home in a daze of warm profound beauty, tunes and lyrics wrapped around our brains and engraved on our hearts, where they have remained ever since.

    The next night I went with Jen, Julie and James in great excitement, this time with my camera and binoculars. Jen was taken ill during the second song and had to go home. It was very upsetting – we had great views from our 2nd row seats in the balcony – and I missed having someone to share the moments with. The playlist differed slightly – he dropped two songs and altered some banter – and it was fascinating seeing it two nights in a row, and having the luxury of really being able to savour the poetry and melodies.

    All those I know who have seen this tour feel the same way – we email each other with wistful joy reminiscing about the elegant musicianship and extraordinary humanity. Julie and James were equally blown away. And we were so upset for Jen that we bought her Leonard Cohen – Live in London as some small compensation for her terrible night. Which is my Transgression of the Month in a Damn Good Cause.

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    Easter


    Family Outings

    Colman went to Hawaii for a long weekend work trip with the sales team. Luckily Esme and I found much to amuse ourselves with. We were invited to an Easter Egg Hunt party with Armani and Marcus, at which Esme got the hang of putting the eggs in the basket a little too well, to the extent that her basket was overflowing and other children were deprived from participating.

    The following day we went on the Multiple Myeloma Research Foundation charity walk which was 5km around Crissy Field. It was a glorious day, the Bridge glowed in the sun.

    We went with Debra and Noa who we lost early on, and Tracy and Isis, with whom we shared the glory of joint last place – our fatal flaw had been to allow Esme and Isis out of the strollers after we had got half-way.

    The other problem was letting Esme play with my house keys, as we have been doing for months, only this time she lost them. Luckily Kim was at home and we had left the back door unlocked otherwise we would have been in trouble. I’m now using the spare set as I can’t buy new keys this year – doh!

    Over Easter weekend, we visited the packed Academy of Sciences with Jecca, Billy and Luca, and saw the rainforest exhibit; Billy and Esme resuming their love affair. She spent a lot of time gazing at him adoringly and he was very kind and took time to hang out with her.


    Free Entertainment of the Month

    2009 marks the 30th anniversary of the Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence and so an extra-Indulgent Easter at Dolores Park was planned. The regular Easter Sunday activities, firstly Children's Easter and then the Bonnet Contest, were crowned by the ever-popular Hunky Jesus Contest.

    That morning I was giving a talk on how to raise your child without diapers (yes it does work, yes it is more work in some areas but less in others, and yes it takes longer than I had hoped it would, but yes I’d do it again). In the afternoon we headed into the extremely crowded park. Where we met up with Adam and Jen plus some mates, plus Tom and Kim, Jonathan, Jen, Julie and James.


    And delightfully, my old friend, David Glass, who I’d not seen for 7-8 years or so, who was in SF for work – our Visitor of the Month. David and Esme took to each other immediately and she loved all the bustle and excitement in the park.

    It was hard to get close to the Hunky Jesus contest and we missed much of the repartee (although we were assured it is the same every year), but it seemed the top three contenders were Victoria Secrets’ Jesus (a bearded wonder in deep red lingerie), Brokeback Jesus (two buffed gentlemen stripped to the waist in chaps strapped to a beam of wood), and Livestock Jesus who looked the part with long flowing locks, a shepherd’s crook and two sheep and a donkey which he somehow got to Dolores Park and through the adoring crowd. To our chagrin he lost out to Brokeback Jesus, it was pointed out to us that they did fulfil the brief of being ‘hunky’.

    David stayed for an impromptu dinner party at ours; Esme in her element with all her favourite men round at once. And we went to his hotel two nights later to bid him farewell. Stunning views from his 43rd floor suite to the Bridge and across the city. Hopefully it will be sooner than 7-8 years before we meet again.

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    Expedition of the Month


    Baja California Sur

    Our annual family holiday took us to beautiful Baja – which, for those unfamiliar with Mexico, is the long peninsula on the westernside of the country, bordered by California to the north. Perfect for Californians as there is no time difference, and only a 3hr flight.

    We flew south along the coast, passing Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, San Diego and then down the sun-baked mountainous peninsula and over turquoise seas to its bottommost tip. Los Cabos resembles a modern day Sodom and Gomorrah, with green glistening golf courses, multi-storey hotels, hundreds of condos and timeshares, many still under construction, and extensive marinas.

    We hired a huge white 4WD, which we were assured was the smallest they had, and headed north for 2 hours up the Pacific coast into arid scrub with sage-green cacti spiking through the grey brush. The sun was hot, the sea disco-dazzling blue and the road out of Cabo straight and empty.


    Todos Santos

    Our first destination was Todos Santos, an arty, laid back (one traffic light in the whole town) and attractive coastal Pueblo Magico, which has seen in recent years a boom in real estate, cafes, restaurants and stylish places to stay – hence our interest in visiting.

    We stayed 10 minutes out of town down a very bumpy dirt track at Alegria Villas in an adobe-finished apartment for the first two nights. We soon settled in, revelling in our splendid picture window with views over the lagoon and beyond to the golden beach and Pacific, plus terrace, which caught the breeze most effectively, plus big muslin-draped bed, and high thatched ceiling which kept us cool.

    For the next two nights we moved to brilliantly coloured 4-roomed The Hotelito, between Todos Santos and the (mostly) deserted beach, run by an entertaining interior designer, British expat Jenny.

    Her verve and flair is writ large in this bijou B&B’s fabulous colour combinations think sea green alongside shocking pink adjacent to cobalt beside pillar-box red next to saffron, contrasting vibrant bougainvilleas everywhere.

    Each room has its own patio, sit out area and hammock. Esme loved the charming staff and the friendly dogs.

    Our four days in Todos Santos passed agreeably in strolls beside the lagoon and down to the beach, watching the blue velvet sea, birding (Esme soon recognising brown pelicans at 100 paces), meals out, rest periods during the day, reading books and magazines, exploring downtown Todos Santos’ many charms including the burrito stand, the dogs (to Esme’s delight) and Hotel California - yes that Hotel California - where Esme and I danced to Flashback, a long-haired covers band.

    We did one afternoon’s ‘outing’ to a couple of beaches 20 minutes out of town – one was the ‘commercial’ beach where fisherfolk land their catch every day to the enthusiasm of assembled frigatebirds, pelicans, gulls and vultures. The other, Playa Las Palmas, is considered the only safe swimming beach in the area (although surfing is great all along the coast), and we were looking forward to our first swim of the holiday.

    Esme had other ideas. She enjoyed the walk through the palm grove to the completely deserted playa, which had satisfyingly curling waves crashing onto fine sand. She was quite interested in the birds in the distance (although kept from closer inspection as they were intent on pecking at aromatic carcasses). But was completely freaked out at the sight of Colman striding into the surf, and became hysterical when he disappeared under a wave, clinging desperately to me. Nothing could comfort her and her wails of anguish only grew louder when Colman, oblivious, emerged from the sea to head towards an interesting looking cave rather than back to her for reassurance. So when it was my turn to swim, it was kept short, and we packed up and left, taking heed of her frantic gestures to return to the car.


    East Cape

    On our fifth day we then drove north and then east over the arid semi-desert mountains, a stunning and empty drive. It was very hot inland, we were thankful to have air-con. Esme travelled well, reading books, singing and snoozing.

    Our first sight of the Sea of Cortes didn’t disappoint – a precious rich turquoise blue. Our destination was Cabo Pulmo on the East Cape, reached after 15km on unpaved roads. Much of the coast road is unpaved between Los Cabos and La Ribera, which has saved the area from development hence far and it still feels wild and frontier-like. I kept telling Colman to slow down, Esme loved it and asked for more every time we went over a bump.

    There is talk (and has been for years) of building a superhighway along the coast, and the expectation of untrammelled development to follow. We saw many signs (whether For Sale or Keep Out) on untouched land fenced off for miles.

    Apparently many are designed to trap an unwary speculator into buying land owned by a third party – ownership deeds and title are a murky area in these parts. Big development turf wars are on the cards, as we passed several chaps sitting by the side of the road with no building in sight, just keeping an eye out for claim jumpers/staking their own claim to land.

    We can only hope the road is long delayed and hopefully the economic downturn will help our cause here because we really really loved Cabo Pulmo and we would have happily spent more time there.

    It is a two-horse town (literally roaming around the streets, in the pic below they're outside the grocery shop), off the grid (solar powered) and they use artesian water. The nearest shops are back down the dirt road, there’s the (above mentioned) very basic grocery shop in town plus 4-5 restaurants so we were fine for food, and we did bring some of our own. This is Esme on the mean streets of downtown Cabo Pulmo – and yes that was the speed sign!



    It is opposite a small but important marine park, which has the best reef system in Western North America. I got to go on a snorkelling boat trip around the rocks and reef, and we saw an amazing huge shoal in one location, colourful reef fish at the main reef, plus sea lions swimming underneath us at a third.

    My Fish of the Month was the King Angelfish Holacanthus passer for its fabulous psychedelic colours. Unfortunately as out of season they didn’t run another tour that day so Colman didn’t get to go and we were only there two days.


    We stayed at a vacation rental El Encanto de Cabo Pulmo which is beautifully done. Hand-crafted sinks, adobe walls, a great Mexican colour palette, folk art, a high level of finishes and a gorgeous tropical garden with a fountain and metal sculptures. There were three accommodations, we had a casita in the garden with a muslin-draped 4-poster bed.

    One night I woke convinced there was a large rodent of some description in the casita, scratching and gnawing loudly. I woke Colman and terrified, we steeled ourselves to turn on the light. Nothing could be seen. We couldn’t understand what the noise was until we heard a whinny and realised one of the town’s horses was chewing on our traditional thatched roof!

    Everybody, Mexican and gringo, waves and says hello; one of the main attractions of Cabo Pulmo.


    One of those magical places where everyone is very interesting and charming, plenty of people come back year after year, there’s a real community.

    At nights there was excellent stargazing , we took it in turns to catch the dawn, and the beaches were good for swimming and snorkelling. Esme was getting less alarmed if either of us went swimming.

    We spent time with her under palapas on the beach playing with pebbles and she began to accept that the parent swimming would return.



    She was also pretty good about wearing her hat, and at no time on the holiday got overheated or caught by the sun.





    Our final destination Villa del Faro a pretty swanky and private place, 17km S of Cabo Pulmo, on the dirt road, on a hilltop overlooking the sea, with tiers and terraces cascading down to the beach. It is owned by an artistic group of American friends who were real pioneers into the area, buying up and building 15 years ago and undertaking major landscaping.


    They have created a magnificent place (although Colman wasn’t that keen on the Italianate style) with several casas, lush palm gardens, lots of space, a very attractive swimming pool and poolroom, pavilions – all for the ‘family’ who still live there and also a hotel for the past 3 years.


    The food was excellent and after extensive research, Colman decided they made the best margaritas of the trip. They describe themselves ‘exquisitely off the grid’ (solar powered, guests are asked to take short showers, no a/c, shop locally for organic produce and support the local community, buildings sited around existing cacti and trees) - overall more luxurious than barefoot eco-chic.

    There was art , antiques, sculptures, folk art, playful details everywhere including trompe l’oeil paintings, fountains, cactus gardens, hammocks – in short an incredible amount of detail and comfort. The bed was the best yet, they even provided a muslin drape and beautiful hand-carved child’s bed for Esme (although she actually preferred to sleep in her cot).

    There are 5 units to book, one of which is this impossibly romantic tiny stone cottage on the beach.

    From our terrace we saw incredible sunrises, gray whales passing, had our own iguana living in the stone fish sculpture and a dove nesting on our doorframe.

    Esme loved running around the terraces; she progressed to not minding us swimming in the pool.

    I went down to the beach for a swim on my own in the clear greeny blue waters. Literally not a soul on the beach for miles, and only 1 or 2 boats at sea. Stunning.


    One night we went out to eat in the local beach shack which was hilariously simple with vistas of miles of unspoiled sandy beaches. Yet the food was good and it attracted a big crowd and we realised there are several large villas/rental properties in the area, it is fast becoming ‘discovered’.

    On our last night I got up in the middle of the night to see the stars burning so brightly above given additional intensity by the clarity of the skies so you could see them right down to the horizon. I watched Scorpio rise over the silver sea, and a meteor shower. Phenomenal.

    They are only an hour or so back to the airport on the dirt road through undulating hills, a village and the grey-green scrub, but it did feel a world away from brash Cabo. Really a piece of Paradise.


    Homeward Bound

    At the airport we were surprised to see baggage handlers wearing masks. Esme pointed to a large advertising hoarding, which featured a glamorous bottle of tequila and some glasses, and said, “Daddy!”

    The flight home was a breeze once she went to sleep, and mildly frustrating before she did.

    Our holiday was a great success from every point of view: we weren’t overambitious about distances and activities given the heat and with Esme, she slept really well all week and loved each place we stayed, and was a hit with all hoteliers and staff, we were able to completely relax, the food was good (seafood & fish & lots of guacamole) and we loved the under-inhabited semi-arid landscapes which were unexpectedly bursting with life.

    And it was really enchanting seeing Esme spending so much time with Colman – she adores him and it was “Daddy! Daddy! Daddy!” all week.

    Unfortunately she developed a high temperature the day after, we went to hospital and it wasn’t flu of any sort (which we knew but good to have it confirmed, and it did give us a bit of a thrill to be behind a door with isolation notices on it) most likely caused by the change in climate and temperature – San Francisco was rather chilly our first few days back! This window display is on my route to Kristan and Steve’s twice a week and they ‘dress’ the model topically – brilliant!

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    Bird of the Month


    Baja Birding

    We saw 46 species in our 8 days including 13 new Life Birds.


    We had a Bird of the Day, which ranged from new Life Bird Gila Woodpecker (Melanerpes uropygialis) feasting and perching atop cacti seen from our window at Alegria Villas – these birds often nest in cacti and are typically seen in low desert scrub - to the brilliant beauty of the Northern Cardinal (Cardinalis cardinalis) with its crested head (a common bird east of the sierras but isn’t found in California) and its bi-coloured cousin with a parrot-like bill, the Pyrrhuloxia (Cardinalis sinuatus), another Life Bird – both visited us in the tree outside our casita at El Encanto.

    Excitingly sighted on my solitary walk and swim along the pristine beach at Villa del Faro was the slight and graceful Least Tern (Sternula antillarum), which is endangered in San Francisco where a rigorous programme tries to protect it. Also a Life Bird.

    Bird of the Holiday for its very physical and almost omnipresent abundance was the Brown Pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis), whose distinctive silhouette was visible from dawn to sunset on both coasts and in numbers. Although we were concerned to see many dying in Todos Santos – we were told varyingly that it was a virus and also they were dying of starvation as the seas are becoming too warm for their prey fish to breed.

    Bird Moment of the Holiday was on our second night when gazing out at dusk from Alegria Villas, and saw these amazing aerial acrobatics being performed at high speed by creatures I initially took to be bats. Except that they flew like high-speed swifts at low altitude, banking and dashing at incredible velocity catching insects before night fell. Identified in the gloom finally as the Lesser Nighthawk (Chordeiles acutipennis) – my first ever nightjar. Esme was less excited by getting up close and personal with Villa del Faro's resident cockatiels.

    Birds of the Day ranged in size from the extraordinary looking Northern aka Crested Caracara (Caracara cheriway) seen at The Hotelito first and then subsequently on our voyage to the wonderfully teeny Xantus's Hummingbird (Hylocharis xantusii) which weighs 3g and is 8cm long – both were new Life Birds for me. At El Encanto a resident pair perched on our clothesline and we got within 2 feet – Esme was entranced. They were elevated to Bird of the Day status at Villa del Faro when we saw two of them, about to fly, still in the nest – one of those moments you’ll not forget, and so are April’s Bird of the Month.



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    Mural of the Month

    Stencil of the Month

    Bumper Sticker of the Month

    Where Are We Going? Why Am I In This Handbasket?

    Love and hugs

    Nadine, Colman and Esme xxx

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  • Friday, April 17, 2009

    SO GOOD IN SO CAL

    Dearest Family and Friends

    57 Cumberland Street, San Francisco CA 94110

    Phone Number: +1 415 738 2112

    March Highlights

  • Buying Nothing


  • Conor

  • San Diego

  • Food and Wine

    Buying Nothing


    Month Three has seen some clutter reduction. Imperceptible changes are afoot, some mild weeding of the mountains of stuff has occurred. I concede that more vigorous pruning is required, but a start has been made, the mindset is shifting.

    There are various maxims I’ve taken to heart to help me through this year of retail abstinence and efforts to move towards a more minimalist existence whereby objects gain more worth and experiences are enriched.

    Retail Therapy is Out.
    Retail therapy is all about a little quick fix, a sugar-rush high carefully calculated to stroke one’s ego.

    Its removal has allowed me to revel in more sustaining and nurturing practices – I’ve loved going to yoga and Pilates, taking Esme for walks, spending time in the garden, having a massage a month (my Christmas present from Colman) if ego-stroking is required.


    Make Do and Mend. Our pillow-cases started to wear through, and a hole appeared. Normally I’d have bought new high thread count Egyptian cotton replacements (good quality bed-linen is important to me) but these were taken to the menders for an extra lease of life.

    Leave Your Wallet At Home. Not always possible, but keys, phone and other essentials can often fit into your pocket. Taking my bag out just encourages shopping, so doing without is not only thrifty but also liberating, with one less thing to carry.

    Shared Family Experiences are Better than More Stuff. We had a great morning out at the Exploratorium (the excellent science museum) where Esme was so excited by the steam machine, the colour spectrum analyser, the magnets, the distorted room, flashing lights everywhere and watching Mama get charged with electricity.



    Free is Easy. Esme had pretty much learned her books by heart, and the adults were getting distinctly bored with them anyhow, so joining the library has been a godsend. Friends have been very generous at passing on outgrown clothes and pre-loved toys.


    Swapping and Regifting is Good. We didn’t care for our large pot of rosemary salt but Armani loves it, and she gave me some hair de-frizzing potions in exchange; Colman is getting Spanish lessons in return for giving Jonathan our old computer.

    Great satisfaction is to be derived from passing things on to more worthy recipients.

    Second Hand is Cool. Well mostly. I like to call it stylishly shabby, or distressed chic. Tracey B hosted DLG for a massive clothes swap. Which turned out to be a generous throw-out on her part. As she’s the glamorous mother of twins 4 months older than Esme, both my daughter and I did extremely well out of the transaction. I came back with about 10 pairs of shoes, sleepsuits, tops, cardigans and dresses for Esme, and a dress, 3 tops, 2 jumpers, 2 pairs of trousers, 2 shirts and a poncho for me.

    So, although I acknowledge second hand requires a purchasing action at the beginning of the chain, we freeloaders were the lucky recipients, and most elegant we are as a result!

    Live Performance is Enriching. In March I went to the ballet twice, with Kristan and also with Dayna, and was completely transported by the artistry and technical skills on display.

    Transgressions of the Month

    There were a few this month: I had to get a taxi somewhere with an empty wallet in hand, and San Francisco is short on bank cashpoints. You have to get cash out at costly ATM machines or purchase something and get cash back. So, ever frugal, I opted for the latter rather than pay the $1.50-$2.00 charge. I bought body moisturiser and eye creamin my defence I had run out of both items. I did also buy a replacement day moisturiser, but I’ve allowed this one, especially as it has an SPF of 30 and my mother had kindly pointed out how old and haggard I’m starting to look after 2 years in California. It is a very strong sun up there…

    More seriously Soren and Esme were turning on the gas hobs on the stove and my keyboard ran out of batteries, so, shopping in a hurry as usual, I dashed in to the hardware store and bought a big family pack of AA batteries and knob protector kit. Only when I got home did I realise my error: we have a recharger at home, I should have bought rechargeables… Small comfort that we recycle our batteries. And of course the knob protection kit only works on 3 of the 7 knobs, has made the children even more interested in the workings of the stove, and we’ve added more plastic into the planet. I should have tried to find something 2nd hand online or joined Freecycle.

    I handed over $25 for a book of vouchers for Green Living in San Francisco, which gets you money off local restaurants, services and shops, to one of the other mothers in our regular Friday morning playground session, before remembering that this is still shopping. Bargains are another clever marketing tactic - you think you’re saving money by buying something in order to get the discount (although I did succumb when I saw 7 J cloths for 70c in a closing down sale). So I made up a hasty excuse, returned the vouchers and got my money back.

    Freebie of the Month


    A most stylish pair of sunglasses kindly passed on to me by Jane (who claimed they didn’t fit her) while we were in San Diego, after Esme broke mine.

    I also availed myself of the free toiletries at the San Diego hotels we stayed at, so we’re good for moisturiser and lotion for now. (I was careful to take only the necessary ones, not additional fripperies).

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    Brand New Baby

    My sister, Louise and husband Peter, had her third child, Samuel Joshua, on the 8th March, welcomed to the family with open arms by older sister, Lizzie, and brother, Thomas.

    A new cousin for Esme, we look forward to meeting Sam this summer!

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    Visitor of the Month


    Conor

    Our very dear pianist friend from Dublin, Conor, was on a concert tour across the US with that highly regarded outfit, the Dublin Philharmonic, and managed to get off the bus and fly to see us for 3 days and nights, before rejoining the (mostly Bulgarian) troupe in that Central Valley metropolis, Modesto, on the Saturday night.

    It was marvellous to see Conor, who had been a witness at our legal wedding, and had been music director and played the piano for our public wedding three weeks later.

    He needed to practice his next piece for performance on the following Monday, so Colman fixed him up with a succession of wealthy San Franciscans with wonderful houses in Pacific Heights and, crucially, underplayed Steinways.


    On our first night we had dinner and caught up, Esme asked him to be her godfather, which he was delighted to accept (not a dry eye in the house); on the second night I went out to the DLG leaving Colman and Conor to attend a recital by Russian pianist, Evgeny Kissin.


    On the Friday Esme and I took him on a Mission tour of the murals, Mission Dolores church, taking in the seedier parts before returning to the spirited and fun Valencia Street, ending up in Mission playground so he could meet Armani and Marcus.

    That night we hosted dinner in his honour, inviting Dan, Dayna, Adam, Jen D (as DLG representative) and Morgan (as the Wine Night representative) and we all had a riotous time. The conversation ranged from Nietzsche to frat house initiations, and we all were nicely sozzled by the end of proceedings.

    Conor left all too soon the next morning, sob… but we have the memories to sustain us until next time!

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    Expedition of the Month


    San Diego

    Our Adventure of the Month began a day earlier than Colman and Esme’s as I flew south on a Wednesday afternoon to San Diego (the 2nd largest city in California and 8th largest in the US) to stay at the Ferrari-red Pininfarina-inspired The Keating, the first of three hotels in three nights reviewed for http://www.i-escape.com - we are finally going to add California to the site!

    My fourth ever overnight away from Esme was very pleasant but not quite the blissful solitary indulgence I had hoped for. The hotel manager very kindly took me to dinner in the restaurant, and presented me with sample tasters of pretty much most of the menu.

    Colman and Esme arrived the following morning (uncharacteristically hazy and so it proved for much of our stay, much to the mortification of the San Diegans who revel in their legendary constant sunshine). We then explored Downtown, lunching in the touristy Gaslamp Quarter . Every city has its Gaslamp: a former rundown seedy older area, now renewed, restored and celebrated including some brash post-modernism and 90s high rise gentrification.

    We strolled along the San Diego Bay Embarcadero waterfront promenade taking in the ships of yesteryear including HMS Surprise, a modern C18th Royal Navy frigate replica used in the excellent Master and Commander as well as military vessels passing (SD is the site of one of the largest naval fleets and attendant facilities in the world).

    Colman’s inner boy surfaced, insisting we visit the aircraft carrier museum ship USS Midway (1945-1992). It was a strange experience: marvelling at the extraordinary feat of engineering and undoubted human talent that had gone into creating this killing machine and the vast consumption of precious resources. It was like going for tea with the Great Satan.

    Esme loved running about the flight deck and hangar bay, clapping when her Mama performed cartwheels to keep her amused. I was warned to be extra careful as the non-slip paint could inflict injury. Colman perused the inner workings of the engines, bridge and flight deck aircraft.


    Later we headed over to Hotel No.2: The Pearl, a ‘vintage mid-century modern boutique hotel’ – a motel makeover to you and me. While not escaping the limitations of the original building, the refurb had done a good job of creating a funky vibe with cute retro styling – the best touch being the goldfish in each room, which Esme spotted first: ‘Bish! Bish!’ That night we joined in the lively Stones Brewing Co Beer and 5 Course Matching Menu evening (really good food and I drank more beer that night than all other times put together) while Esme slept beatifically in the room above.

    We’re all Going to the Zoo

    San Diego’s zoo is large (101 acres) and pioneered a revolution in zoo design, being among the first to create a lush botanical garden to both feed and house its inhabitants, while playing a role in endangered species protection, all of which make it a premier attraction.

    Esme’s eyes were as wide as saucers as we took in the koalas, lions, bears, elephants, giraffes, meerkats, rhino, wallabies, parrots, flamingos, monkeys, gorillas, tigers, orang-utans, eagles, snakes and butterflies plus several aviaries. She had noises and actions for most species.

    Her mother and father enjoyed the day out almost as much as she did.

    We rendezvoused Jane, Mike and Grace beside the big cats.

    Grace is 5 days younger than Esme and we last saw them when the girls were 6 weeks old in LA. It was fantastic to see them.

    Apart from the birds, which I’m always drawn to, the apes were the most mesmeric for me, because we are so clearly related to these creatures.

    How anybody can tout ‘intelligent design’ over evolution really beggars belief!


    The gorillas had a brand new baby at their feet and leant up against the viewing glass so that we were literally centimetres from them. Very humbling.

    We couldn’t see the whole zoo as Esme was starting to fade, so we headed for our third hotel: ‘luxury lifestyle, neo-modernist yet playful’ Tower 23, right on the coast at surfer-chic Pacific Beach.


    Here Esme crashed out in a pile of pillows while I did my hotel tour, after she woke up, we walked along the promenade in front of the hotel watching the surfers and sea gulls. Colman said he couldn’t live in Pacific Beach, as yet another jogger/in line skater/cyclist/surfer hove into view, as he’d feel far too inadequate.

    That night, we ate our (extremely nice) dinner as fast as possible while Esme cheerfully ran all over the restaurant, entranced by the feature wall’s changing colours. We then hid behind the bed reading magazines in silence until she finally slept.



    Encinitas

    After breakfast on the terrace looking out to sea, we did a bit more wandering over the grassy sward before heading up the coast to La Jolla and the Museum of Contemporary Art. Its current exhibition, Jasper Johns: Light Bulb, did exactly as it said on the tin and Esme got rather bored of pointing at one light bulb after the other, but loved creating her first ever work of art in the education room.

    We took another leisurely turn by the seashore, in the sunshine, watching Brown Pelicans and Seals basking in the protected harbour, before heading to Jane and Mike’s for a late lunch.


    It was great to see Felix for the first time in 3 years, we lunched in the wonderfully overgrown garden. Esme loved the blackboard wall and spent much of our time scribbling with chalk – such a good idea!


    Bird of the Month

    A walk was then proposed in the nearby Batiquitos Lagoon, one of the last remaining tidal wetlands in California. Esme and Colman stayed behind for a nap.

    I had a wonderful couple of hours. Grace running and tumbling and picking herself up, Felix looking through the binoculars and after Grace in a very loving way, while Jane and I gossiped away.

    We saw a Snowy Egret immediately we set off, as well as an Osprey fishing and wheeling above us.

    And I managed a shot with the long lens of the crimson brilliance of the 4" Anna’s Hummingbird throat plumage.

    Felix and Jane were impressed by the long-legged delicacy of the Marbled Godwit and the lengthy extraordinariness of the Long-billed Curlew. I saw a chap with a scope, so asked him what the terns were – I could see 3 different types including the Caspian Tern. He introduced me to the elegant Forster’s Tern Sterna forsteri, which is an all year resident in Southern California – a Life Bird - and the bird of the month.

    I spent ages staring at a certain plump wader, trying to get it to look like the Yellowlegs in my bird book, as the chap with the scope had told me they were around. I realised it must be the Black-bellied Plover on the turn from winter to summer plumage – another new one!

    The following day we went to a sculpture park in very unseasonal inclement damp and windy weather. It turned out to be shut. The kids ran around and I thrilled to spot the Chipping Sparrow Spizella passerina, common but not one I’d seen before.

    As we left I checked the notice board for the bird list. To my delight (and slight embarrassment), what I had confidently thought of as a Lesser Scaup was in fact new Life Bird, the uncommon Ring-necked Duck Aythya collaris.

    From unpromising beginnings, the bird list reached 35 at the end of the weekend!

    Jane and Mike

    After the lovely walk at magic hour with its beautiful light by the Lagoon, we returned to find Esme had just woken up. She and Grace had a great time hanging out together for the rest of the evening, reading books or wresting them away from each other, and sharing a bath.

    After the girls were finally persuaded to go to bed, Mike cooked up a storm and we drank wine, catching up on old and future times – what a delightful evening.


    Despite the rain on our final morning, and 4 different locations in 4 nights, and our plane home delayed by an hour, it was a really successful visit to San Diego, thanks especially to Jane and Mike. We finished off by driving down the Point Loma peninsula to see the view back towards the city over the bay and naval dockyard.



    Esme slept on me the whole way back on the plane – what an angel - or rather, what an ill child as her persistent low level 2 month-old cold turned into a temperature a day later, but at the time, we thought her extremely angelic!

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    Food and Drink


    Eating

    I took Colman to Bar Tartine on Valencia Street for a belated birthday dinner. It is a great neighbourhood restaurant, complete with clattery kitchen and talkative patrons. Colman’s starter was really superbly put together: Santa Barbara sea urchin, soft scrambled eggs, asparagus, jalapeño, brioche, brown butter; while I went for the scallop crudo, cucumber, horseradish, hibiscus, sorrel, hazelnut crisp, chive oil combo. The sort of thing we don’t do together enough and very nice it was.

    Tom and Kim had a politics brunch at which copious quantities of their extremely nice Chive and Brie strata were eaten, and Esme spent much time charming the guests and investigating the staircase to some folks’ alarm, particularly when she toppled down the final few steps on one occasion.

    The following day Geoff and Armani had a fun social family-packed brunch to welcome Carleen, Geoff’s sister, to San Francisco. Again, the food was terrific and I resolved my ‘eating less days’ have to start the next day.

    It was the month for siblings to visit: Adam’s sister, Alex and husband, Damian, came over for a very jolly dinner one night. It took literally 20 photos to get this half-decent one as everybody kept giggling with the anticipation of the self-timer.

    Our gastronomic month ended with a day trip down to the Los Altos in the South Bay to see Dev and Shital and their two kids, Saumya and Shiven; we were joined by Soren and Sandy. Dev, Soren and Colman worked together pre-Yahoo who bought them out, and we hadn’t got together in over a year.


    Talk about amazing food! Shital is an excellent cook and creates wonderful flavour combinations out of the simplest ingredients.


    The kids loved playing with Esme who lasted until 9pm, and she had such fun playing in their palatial garden, on the swings, trotting round the pool and trying to join in our volleyball game.

    Thanks for the gorgeous sundress and book guys – lets get together soon.

    Drinking

    We had Julie and James over for dinner one night (lamb shanks in balsamic, delish) – Julie and Colman both got plastered, drinking a bottle of port pretty much between them.

    The next night was Colman’s Wine Night group and I went along as a surprise guest. There was much levity in proceedings and good to catch up with the crew. And also to marvel at Colman’s supposed excellent taste – his No.1 wine choice was CLEARLY the worst…

    Neal, who visited us last year from Chicago, was in town again and came over for dinner (thanks for the lovely book for Esme!). Somehow we managed to get through nearly 3 bottles between the 3 of us and I was definitely very woozy the next day… Cripes…

    Bi-rite at 18 Reasons

    I have been under-surprised of late, and Colman pulled a good one out of the hat, taking me to a Winemaker Dinner with Sean Thackrey. Our favourite food market, Bi-rite (whose slogan is ‘Creating Community Through Food’), have taken over a space nearby on the corner of 18th St, renamed 18 Reasons , with a mission to ‘to promote a dialogue between our neighborhood and people who create art and food’.

    This tiny room had a long table crammed in and a very select group of guests whose names had been drawn out of a hat (Colman had got lucky). The five courses were all house made by Bi-rite using their in-store ingredients – my favourites were the Duck, Duck, Goose and the Rabbit Rillettes:

    Duck, Duck, Goose
    Bi-Rite Family Farm Roasted Beets, Pixie Tangerines, Celery
    NV Sean Thackrey, Pleiades XVII, California

    Cod ‘en escabeche’ with Fennel and Carrots
    Line caught off the Bolinas coast


    2006 Sean Thackrey, Andromeda Pinot Noir, Devil’s Gulch Ranch, Marin

    Devils Gulch Ranch Rabbit Rillettes
    with escarole and green garlic vinaigrette
    2003 Sean Thackrey, Aquila Sangiovese, Eaglepoint Ranch, Mendocino


    Watson Ranch Leg of Lamb
    With potato, artichoke and green garlic gratin
    Braised Greens and Natural juices
    2006 Sean Thackrey, Orion Red Blend, Rossi Vineyard, St. Helena, 1989 Sean Thackrey, Orion Red Blend, Rossi Vineyard, St. Helena

    Point Reyes Blue Cheese and Apple Salad
    Firebrand Currant Rye, Noe Valley Honey and Walnut Oil


    We fell to chatting to the 2 couples on my left and ended up inviting them back to ours – it felt just like our free and easy early 20s except a little more civilised – and Sam (Mr. Bi-rite) came too which was great. A very San Franciscan and truly gourmand evening – yummmm.

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    Mural of the Month

    Stencil of the Month

    Bumper Sticker of the Month


    I’m Already Against the Next War

    Love and hugs

    Nadine, Colman and Esme xxx

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  • Saturday, March 14, 2009


    PARTY ANIMALS

    Dearest Family and Friends

    57 Cumberland Street, San Francisco CA 94110

    Phone Number: +1 415 738 2112

    February Highlights


  • Buying Nothing

  • Celebrations

  • Lodi

  • Party

  • Oscars

  • San Francisco Friends



    Buying Nothing


    In Month Two I got into the virtuous swing of my project, chatting brightly at social occasions about my fascinating experiment, and now much more reconciled and aware of not shopping. It has started to colour my thinking much more tangibly.

    My shopping is now confined to food, essential household items and supporting the arts. But the Buying Nothing project has also made me consider every allowable purchase as well – which I hadn’t really anticipated.


    We should know the provenance of our food, the disposability of our household goods, the value of objects in monetary, energy-consumption, emotional and personal terms.

    A moral dimension to shopping has started to form in my mind – I’ve loaded good and evil, opprobrium and praise onto inanimate objects: colas = evil; resoled boots = good.

    I’m enjoying the debates with friends and strangers. My friend Keith had an interesting point: “Money itself and the act of spending are both in my opinion morally neutral. It is our relationship to the former and our choices with the latter that provide the moral direction.”


    We’ve all long recognised that our only power in a global age of interconnected markets is that of purchasing. Targeting spend (local over large multi-national, recycling wherever possible, eating sustainable food, repairing not replacing) in moral terms often provides me with more endorphins than the temporary rush received when adding to the gadget/record/shoe/hat/homeware collection.


    At heart I’m still feeling a bit of a fraud. In truth, I don’t actually need anything – our household is set up. Material consumption and status competition already didn’t really feature much in our lives. We get more of a buzz from new destinations and experiences than from new possessions.

    Best Free Thing of the Month

    On the last Friday of February, the Moon and Venus shared the early evening sky in a beautiful conjunction. Separated by only about 2 degrees, they also were both in a crescent phase. Just like the Moon, Venus can appear as a full disk or a thin crescent. Frequently the brightest object in the post-sunset or pre-sunrise sky, Venus is so small that it usually requires binoculars or a small telescope to clearly see its phase.

    Colman came home from work and told me he could see it, so I rushed outside with the long lens and managed, after a shaky start, to get this very sharp image. Really phenomenal!

    My personal goal for the year is to have radically reduced clutter, to operate with only those things that I genuinely need, really use and truly love.

    A lofty ambition but one that is so far not producing results. Our home looks identical on the 28th February as it did on the 31st December. I’ve used up a few lotions and potions, so there is some marginal improvement in the bathroom, and a couple of glasses were smashed at the party, but overall, we are still wallowing in STUFF as George Carlin so very brilliantly describes here.

    Transgression of the Month


    We did make a significant purchase in February. A piece of metal sheared off our double stroller . Although I did look online for a secondhand one, Lelli wanted a particular type which wasn’t forthcoming in the timeframe we had. So a brand new stroller was bought online.

    Of course I felt guilty for abandoning the 2nd hand only principle when it came to buying anything for Esme.

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    Dressing Table Drawers

    My audit last month of the bathroom revealed the enormous number of possessions lurking in every nook and cranny, and made me determined to adopt a much more masculine and utilitarian approach to toiletries.

    The bedroom inventory of make-up and fripperies, however, revealed (in some ways) more horrifying totals, crammed into 3 drawers; I imagine the volume is actually under the average for my contemporaries.

    Beginning with make up, I was staggered to count 12 different foundations (and 1 undereye depuffer) – a few were free samples but this is a ridiculous quantity.

    Although abstemious on the face powder (just 2, one loose and one compact), liquid eyeliner (1), eye pencils (2) and blusher (3), I made up for it in the mascara (6), lipstick (17), lip gloss (6), lip balm (6) (yes they are all different), eye shadow (16) and perfume (9) categories. Strewth! Many of these have been with me a very long time.

    There is an original Biba lipstick, which I got swapping make up at school. A mother of my classmate is probably still looking for it today. A couple of eye shadows I’ve had for 25 years – none of this stuff fades away, it’s all seemingly indestructible. And, yes I know, you’re meant to chuck away make up after a bit and replace. Fiddlesticks. Just a ploy to get you to buy more which adds to the hard plastics in landfill, and rapidly increases the alarming acreage of palm oil plantations at the expense of tropical rainforest. There is a lot we can do about climate change…

    And if you’re applying make up, you need brushes (6) and a sponge (1); if out and about it is handy to have your make up all in one convenient receptacle – I’ve two travel compacts, hardly used. I genuinely will never need to buy eye-shadow again for as long as I live.

    Funnily enough, lots of make up applied to the face requires removal. And that means cleanser (3), toner (1), face mister (2), beauty serum (2), eye cream (3), and moisturiser. Probably the most essential item mentioned so far. And because I use it day and night, I’ve only got 2 day and 1 night ones left – an example of sensible practice: no stockpiling, used only as required.

    On the grooming front:

    My manicure bag has nail scissors, 2 nail clippers, a set of toe separators, 2 tubes of foot cream, 2 bottles of nail varnish remover, and 14 nail polishes! There’s also 2 tweezers, 5 tubes of eyebrow dye, 2 bottles of eyelash dye fixer, a receptacle for mixing it all in, a hair band to keep your hair out of your face when applying make up, 7 wax strips, 4 eye masks, 1 bags of 2 differently sized hair rollers and one set of false eyelashes – now that took me back…

    Miscellaneous additional items: 10 essential oils, 2 massage oils, 2 bottles of vitamin pills, a hairbrush, a lint roller, 2 baskets to hold everything neatly, 2 sets of Kirby grips (bobby pins), 6 hair clips, and my Autumn colour chart for clothes.

    What struck me forcibly, is that the more stuff one buys, even if just an innocuous eye-shadow, it behoves one to buy more stuff – bag to keep it in, brush to apply it, and eye make-up remover to take it off.

    In a future audit, clothes - like every other woman I despair of ever having anything to wear but am sure if added up, the results will be truly shaming. And I can see already that my biggest temptation this year will be the vintage and pre-loved clothes shops of Valencia that I walk past many times a week…

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    Celebrations


    Festival of Nadine and Colman

    Our festivities began with my birthday on Friday the 13th. The day started well – it was great getting so many good wishes via email, phone calls and that great social facilitator of our age, Facebook.

    Colman really surprised me: he dumped a very cold and heavy wrapped present on my lap, which turned out to be two large lumps of frozen meat – a venison loin and a wild boar joint!! He explained that he couldn’t buy me a Thing this year such as jewellery (my inward mutter was, don’t see why not??!!) and so the only course available to him was food, which is ‘allowed’.

    But the morning rapidly went downhill. Esme was, as they say in American, challenging all morning, culminating in her peeing on our bed – the first time she had ever done so – which provoked me into shouting at her, although I was mortified and then overhugged her when she burst into tears.

    I watched the last three episodes of Planet Earth – The Future during the day and was overwhelmed by utter despair at the greedy and heedless tyranny of humanity, the absolute carnage we have wreaked on the biodiversity of this beautiful orb we inhabit, and the sheer scale of the problems facing the environment. When they described how the amphibian population is in grave danger, and 2/3 of the world’s frog species are now on the critical list, I burst into tears and sat on the bed sobbing. My little frog, Esme, could see I was upset and calmed down for a while.


    The day improved when Armani and Paola took me out for lunch at Samovar (thanks girls!) and I took Esme for a run around with Marcus in the baby lounge.


    New Family Addition

    Which is where I heard the news that Niamh, Colman’s sister, had had a baby girl, Caoimhe (pronounced Qu-eve-uh) in Sydney earlier that day. Many congratulations to Niamh!!!!

    Restaurant of the Month


    I had thought earlier in the week that Colman hadn’t remembered to arrange anything for my birthday, but oh me of little faith. He came home early from work (now that NEVER happens) and took Esme off my hands and I shut myself in the bedroom for an hour and chilled out, to recover my equilibrium.

    He took me out for a lovely meal at Cassis in the Lower Haight, which features ‘authentic Niçoise cuisine and Italian-inspired regional specialties from the South of France.’

    Colman sampled the caramelised onion tart followed by the chicken saltimbocca with prosciutto and sage in a veal stock; I went for lobster ravioli followed by slow cooked lamb in provencal sauce. We were intrigued by the garbanzo bean flour French fries and finished with a quintessential tarte tatin.

    We joined Sylvia, who shares the same birthday, and some of the DLG after dinner for one drink. And was chatted up by Andrea, a late 20-something from Italy, who thought I was beautiful and very cool. Well, no doubt someone told him that flattery would get him somewhere with haggard older women. Still, most gratifying!

    But the best part of the night was actually having some one on one time out of the house with Colman – my love - we’ve now been together 7 years – how lucky we are.

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    Expedition of the Month


    Colman’s Valentine Surprise

    I’d arranged a SURPRISE for Colman for Saturday 14th February. In contrast to the previous month, February was much more seasonally in tune with rain (often torrential) and winds (sometimes challenging to the vertical) and leaden skies (featuring several fashionable shades of pewter).

    We headed due east in showery conditions, through the Berkeley hills. Colman’s initial intrigue at our route turned to bafflement as we drove through increasingly characterless commuter suburbs, as hills gave way to plain, and Big Agriculture came to dominate the landscape. We traversed and travelled beside the Sacramento river before heading due east again on a ruler-straight road, vast levee-banked and sunken fields stretching far to right and left. Colman gamely spoke of how interesting it is to witness a side of California that we never see – the featureless valley, the agri-business on an industrial scale, and noted how depressed the region is.

    Lodi

    Doris the sat-nav, tipped Colman off that bustling metropolis (pop 68,000) Lodi was our chosen destination. On arriving at destination - the somewhat soulless and corporate Hampton Inn and Suites - Colman was clearly taken aback: ‘this doesn’t look like an i-escape hotel!’

    Esme enjoyed riding on the hotel trolley up to the room. As we approached along the corridor, Colman’s heart sank upon his hearing a noisy family: who were revealed to be Rob, Jecca, Billy and Luca Lawson in the room opposite – Colman’s First Valentine’s Surprise!

    We ventured forth into downtown historic Lodi (est. 1906) and mooched about, before the Lawsons suggested a walk. We agreed to follow them. Colman was amazed at how Rob knew where to go for a walk, ‘they’ve been here before?!?’

    But then correctly guessed birds had to be involved.

    Bird of the Month


    We joined about 30 souls in a bleak car park, with sodden farmland all around, in time for the organised tour to see Sandhill Cranes - Colman’s Second Valentine’s Surprise.



    Esme took an immediate interest in the proceedings, our matching outfits also caused much comment from the assembled earnest birders.

    Now late in the afternoon, the rain held off, and the sun did break through for a while, the light alternatively brilliant and gloomy. The sky was however, more remarkable for scores of geese, mostly Greater White-fronted Goose Anser albifrons flying in skeins, ribbons and wedges above us. The surrounding flooded fields contained many thousands, which honked incessantly, sometimes taking off in huge flocks.


    While the knowledgeable docents held forth for an hour about the Sandhill Crane Grus canadensis, sorely testing the patience of Jecca and Luca, Esme was as happy as a clam jumping in puddles, watching the sky and playing with Billy who was really wonderful with her.

    Eventually, and with still some light in the sky, we drove down the road to find the cranes. As we arrived, we disturbed a Great Horned Owl from its silo roost – very excitingly my first sighting.


    In the deepening murk, and by now cold and bitter wind, we FINALLY saw small herds of the utterly distinctive Sandhill Cranes coming in to land, in a manner reminiscent of feisty fighters in World War II films. Colman managed to see their famous courtship dance through the telescope.


    Their presence in the Sacramento Delta is a great story: careful land management and concerted conservation efforts have brought them back from 5 nesting pairs in the 1940s to 6000 birds now. These 5ft tall omnivores fly back to Oregon and NE California to breed, wintering near Lodi. They mate for life and can live up to 25 years in the wild. Their fossil records are among the oldest of any living bird.

    On the point of departure, our attention was brought to some white fields in the distance. We had thought it was plastic sheeting, but no, the fields were bleached by thousands of Snow Geese Chen caerulescens - truly amazing and again a new Life Bird.

    Fun with the Lawsons

    Rob organised the whole weekend and efficiently booked us into a popular Italian restaurant for dinner. Esme was still enchanted by Billy, and looked adoringly at him as they read books together

    Colman and I put Esme to bed before adjourning to the Lawsons’ room. It was by now 8.30 and they’d already received two complaints about the boys making noise from the room occupants below. They offered to swap rooms (rejected) and explained that the boys did need to run around a bit but would be going to bed soon enough (after we had a few games of set.

    Rob went down to reception. And witnessed the harassed receptionist dealing with a third complaint. Rob is nobody’s idea of a loud boorish type, she was very sympathetic to him making it clear she was on our side and that the guests were being ridiculous. Rob then explained he only wanted to borrow the corkscrew…

    The next morning Colman’s final Valentine Surprise was meeting Joyce and Gary (who live near Sacramento) for breakfast in a local diner. It was the first time Joyce (one of the i-escape freelancers) had met Esme and Colman.


    Our plans for further birding were scuppered by the rain and – everyone revealed as fair weather birders only. So we all went home, missing out on Lodi’s further (somewhat hidden) delights.

    Thanks Rob, Jecca, Billy and Luca for being such excellent Valentine Surprises and arranging our trip to Lodi!

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    Birthday Party




    The following weekend saw our annual joint birthday party. We entertained 50 folk (well entertained is perhaps stretching it but they put a brave face on it) from about 3.30pm until 1am.



    There was a family contingent in the afternoon. Tracey and the Twins (Selena and Zoe) joined Debra and Noa for a LDLG (Little Drinking Ladies Group) photo opportunity.



    The first Party Casualty was Ava (who also won best outfit) who ran into the newel post for a black eye, but was very brave.



    Visitor of the Month was Sharon who happened to be in San Francisco for work and had time to party with us – thanks for the flowers and for hanging out, and good luck for the next few months with No.2!



    I was very impressed by the lengths some went to to keep the presents appropriate to the year of Buying Nothing. Danny and Akemi chose an excellent card; Amy B had been witness to a conversation as to whether candles counted as essential household items or not and put us out of our misery by giving some; Jason having heard Colman had been a little concerned we may be caught short, gift wrapped 2 rolls of loo paper (recycled natch) – the joke being that the previous week Colman and I had had a misunderstanding and both had bought paper, so we were entirely well stocked for the moment anyhow.


    Adam and Jen graced us with a lengthy appearance before heading off on the rest of the night’s adventures. Jen knitted us some psychedelic wrist bands from donated wool to make sure she didn’t buy us anything, which we are to wear at Burning Man; Adam is very kindly renewing my Vanity Fair subscription for me when it runs out in the summer.


    Both sets of downstairs neighbours bearing chocolates and flowers joined in on the basis of ‘if you can’t beat ‘em join ‘em’, and seemed to be enjoying themselves.

    Lelli showcased the Most Daring use of Skirt Length; the Naughty Daniel Sisters rendered Services to Stripes.


    Jonathan brought a cake from Tartine – yummo!


    The night took some surreal turns.


    The Mystery Guest reached the top of the stairs complete with suitcases, spurred on by Colman’s warm welcome and offer of a drink, before realising he was in completely the wrong apartment having just arrived on a flight from Rome. He retreated, abashed, but had to return for his suitcases 5 minutes later.



    There was the Reappearing Guest Phenomenon – started by Celeste, then Saal (with snazzy outfit change), and topped by Geoff. The final 6 (Jen, Laura, Annie & Geoff) left at the party had a fine old time for the last 2 hours, I’ve not giggled so much for many a moon.



    Suddenly Geoff abruptly left the kitchen without a goodbye, so we camera-chased him as he departed. 20 minutes later, Colman suddenly paled – I saw a shadow! Someone’s just come in! – we said nonsense but then Geoff came back for more to much amusement.



    Thanks all, for celebrating with us!


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    Oscars


    Film Event of the Month

    Finally, the Oscars were upon us. Having won the coveted Golden ‘Gina last year, it behove me to host this year. This proved to be a bit more arduous than you might imagine.

    We don’t subscribe to cable TV, so required the assistance of Morgan (for his cable) and Tom and Kim (for their television and cable package) in order to hook up our TV to downstairs’ cable.


    I’d not thought about the event being so close to our party, but was caught on the hop with February being a short month so we had two events in a row. Just like the old days!

    We did have a very entertaining evening, and it was excellent to see Sharon for the second day running.

    Colman proved beyond debate that he is King of the Spreadsheet, entering everybody’s predictions into a master colour-coded document which showed the scores as the event progressed (or regressed, depending on your perspective).

    The smart money and costume choices were all for Slumdog Millionaire; Tom and Deep won the prize for their contribution to racial harmony, world cinema and cross-cultural dressing.


    Esme wore her best party frock especially for the occasion and was fascinated by the TV, the laptop with the scores, and politely clapped along every time the auditorium applauded.

    Colman’s face grew longer and longer as it became apparent I was winning the contest, but I was delighted to win the Golden ‘Gina for the second time, and yes this means we host again next year!

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    San Francisco Fun


    Delightful Dinners

    One Saturday I arranged for Danny and Akemi to Surprise Colman by coming over to dinner, as we hadn’t seen them since their wedding in Tokyo. They volunteered to cook moussaka for main, I had made soup for first course on the sly while cooking the day before for a dinner party with Paula, Ethan and Geoff (lovely evening).


    So when the doorbell rang, Colman thought it was the babysitter, but was genuinely surprised to see Danny and Akemi in chef’s hats bearing ingredients!

    Family Outing

    We took Esme to the Aquarium of the Bay at Fisherman’s Wharf.
    This features prominently in her Good Night San Francisco book so about time we checked it out. Not very big, the main draw is the two tank tunnels you walk through with fish from the Bay Area swimming above and around you.

    The first depicts the near-shore habitat (schools of anchovies and colourful sea stars). Esme loved walking on the ledge, curious about the Rock Fish resting at her eye level on a ledge inside the tanks. The second tank had creatures of the deeper water such as Leopard Shark, Sevengill Shark and Bat Rays. She felt a starfish at the touch pools.

    Beautiful Ballet

    The SF Ballet is very good but performs Jan-May only. I saw Programme One with Armani and Christine, which included Balanchine’s timeless neoclassical masterpiece The Four Temperaments and a fluid modern new work, Diving into the Lilacs.

    Sophia and I loved our Swan Lake night out, the house was packed to the gunwales and the atmosphere very good, the audience lapping up the new sets and the iconic choreography. The music resonated in our heads all the way home.

    As we walked up our street, we heard a very different dance sound emanating from a neighbour’s. Sophia went home, but I wandered into the house party which turned out to be a benefit for a documentary film ($10 voluntary contribution on admission). I missed the rough cut screening (phew) but arrived in time to shake a tail feather.

    It was fascinating, voyeuristically dancing in the corner of the room to an iTunes 80s mix, while the Bright Young Things of SF cavorted, conversed and caroused. My theory is that the 80s was the last time music was mass, so everybody knows the tracks, however ‘good’ or ‘bad’ they may be, useful for filling the dancefloor. I’m old enough to remember how uncool Rick Astley’s Never Gonna Give You Up and Michael Jacksons’ PYT were the first time… and here was I cutting a rug in fine style (it had been over 6 months since I went dancing). Hmm… However, my wiggling didn’t go unnoticed: the host warmly thanked me for coming along and providing such positive dancing energy in the sitting room, the DJ insisted on getting his picture taken with me to commemorate the occasion. Classic San Francisco! Back home someone would suspiciously ask how I knew the host to suss out my legitimacy. As half midnight approached, discretion won over valour and I trooped home, tired but happy.

    One Year of Lelli

    Kristan and I celebrated one year of Lelli looking after our lovely babies in time-honoured tradition: by drinking wine at our gaff. We were joined by the menfolk: Steve, Antonio and Colman. It was lovely to mark the moment and thank Lelli for her exemplary care of our treasures.

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    Mural of the Month

    Stencil of the Month


    Bumper Sticker of the Month

    Love and hugs

    Nadine, Colman and Esme xxx

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  • Sunday, February 15, 2009


    SNOW ANGELS

    Dearest Family and Friends

    57 Cumberland Street, San Francisco CA 94110

    Phone Number: +1 415 738 2112



  • Buying Nothing

  • Tahoe

  • Obama

  • Fun with Friends

  • Film




    January Highlights

    Buying Nothing




    I've decided to Buy Nothing for 2009 - for full details on the concept and rules of engagement, see the previous month's entry. So, how was Month One? Pretty easy as it turns out. Of course that was to be expected. The novelty factor, for one thing – it is easy to give something up to begin with. I don’t consider myself to be much of a shopper – this experiment would perhaps be more interesting if I was Paris Hilton.

    And more importantly, I’ve already got lots of stuff in house already – it will become a more challenging as the year progresses and stocks dwindle.

    On the domestic front, we've done well. Colman got twitchy when down to the last 1/3 of a roll of loo paper; final remnants of toothpaste were extracted by forcing the bristles of the toothbrush into its nether regions; and the washing up liquid had been diluted at least twice before the dregs were drained. In my quest to buy only 2nd hand items for Esme, Adam and Jen kindly drove half way across town for me to pick up diaper covers for her, as we don't have a car. Thanks guys.

    Although haircuts would probably be permitted, I’ve decided against them. Normally it’s my bi-monthly treat – a haircut and facial at the beauty school for the bargain basement price of $60. The facials are always amazing, the haircuts pretty average.

    My reasoning is that the volume of products and water used on my hair at these primping and titivating sessions would keep a small yacht afloat, and more importantly, I would find it extremely hard to resist the temptation to buy their hair and beauty products, captivatingly arranged around the till.

    The last two haircuts have also been appalling, so I turned to Jason ‘Vidal’ Sassoon to wield the blades at the DLG we hosted in January – to great success! Thanks Jason!


    Transgression of the Month

    But before I got too complacent, I slipped up. The morning after the inauguration, I saw a San Francisco Chronicle on our neighbour’s doorstep, with the headline ‘The World Has Changed’ and decided against nabbing it (as I had done once or twice in the autumn as they don’t pick them up for days sometimes) as no, they’d want to keep it, so bought one from a vending machine for 50 cents.

    It didn’t occur to me that this was not allowed until several hours later. Shopping is so engrained as an activity, and the irony is: have I had a chance to actually read it? No! So Esme now has it for posterity.

    One side effect has been that I’m paying more attention to food and have, rather against the spirit of the Buying Nothing plan, surreptitiously built up supplies – we are suddenly drowning in pasta, pulses and grains. I’ve also put on weight as food becomes the fixation, so have vowed to give up sugar and second helpings for Lent in an effort to counter-balance this food intake.


    But it shows how much we are programmed to shop, how hard it is to go out and not return with a bulging bag. And how, shopping passes the time - it gives me and Esme somewhere to go on a wet weekend afternoon if Colman is working and we have to give him some peace, or if inspiration fails me in thinking up fun things to do.

    Toiletries

    The question I’m most frequently asked is what about toiletries, make-up and other sundry items, lurking in the recesses of, I’d wager, every woman’s bedroom and bathroom cabinets.

    My response has been that some things – shampoo, conditioner, moisturiser, toothpaste, contact lens solution, new contact lenses, sunscreen, any prescriptions if required (health is not to be compromised) – can be bought on a strict replacement basis only. I don’t buy sanitary items anyhow, as I have a Mooncup and haven’t worn deodorant in a few years now. Everything else is banned.

    So far, the purchasing of any of these items, banned or otherwise, hasn’t been a problem because supplies are still in stock. For example, before I embarked on this grand scheme, I’d bought masses of hair dye (probably 25 tubes of colour are concealed in the bathroom) when in the UK, which is a lucky escape. The idea of being revealed to the world in my true colours is a truly scary one. And the amounts of peroxide fixer should last out the year.

    I wondered how many other categories of female frippery were similarly stockpiled? So I catalogued the contents of my drawers and cupboards (yes I know I need to get out more). A really staggering and scary list. And one that also took me down Memory Lane – every bottle, tube, wand, brush, compact, jar reminding me of a time and place.

    Starting in the bathroom and with hair. Amazingly, I have no fewer than 10 bottles of shampoo and 3 of conditioners, several of which are free samples collected in hotel rooms – one of which I remember taking when reviewing a hotel in Sydney in January 2006 and has travelled, at no doubt some small cost to the health of the planet, from Sydney to London to San Francisco. Not all are good quality, or indeed, even the right stuff for my hair. No matter, no more shampoo is allowed over the threshold until this lake of surfactants is drained.

    I’d been complaining about how dry and dull my hair has become (little wonder after 25 years of industrial strength dye), and lo and behold, no less than 3 hair masks materialised out of the recesses of the cupboard – result! But again I’d forgotten I had them, and more to the point, I’d not need all this product if my vanity allowed me to look my age. Hair dye in turn demands special shampoos and moisturising products, which require conditioners to soothe aggrieved hair shafts and follicles.

    There is also the hair sculpting pomade – bought after a hairdresser talked me into believing for a nano-second that I’d change the ways of a lifetime and spend some time – any time – styling my hair. And used once, now reminding me I’m not as cool a chick as I’d like to be, and how foolish to have been swayed by the sales pitch to consume more, spend more, have more, into buying a lifestyle and look? Hang on, wouldn’t a really cool chick not have ANY of this nonsense in the first place?

    Moving down the body, I was pleased to see only two exfoliants in my possession – and one is almost finished. Fine. No need for this evil practice any longer.

    Not only is it mostly unnecessary and causes premature ageing but most high street big brand products’ exfoliation ingredient is polyethylene, which causes terrible damage to marine life as these tiny non-biodegradable particles wash into rivers and oceans, contributing to the plastic that makes up 80% of marine debris, choking and killing. I was gratified to see my two exfoliants are of natural materials – phew. And also discovered an abrasive mitt (bought at the Korean Bath House in Sydney 15 years ago) which will do just nicely in place of facial and body exfoliants from now on.

    I also counted 5 bottles of bodywash / gel (all pilfered from hotel rooms and again, will be consumed before any replacement), one set of bath bubbles, 2 bottles of contact lens solution (one nearly finished), 2 nail brushes (one taken with me from my parents' house when I moved out of home, and still works even though it looks manky), 2 pumice stones (one plucked from volcanic slopes in Guatemala, the other bought when I first set up home), one razor and only 2-3 razor blades left, 2 flannels, 1.5 x packets of cotton wool pads, about 50 Q-tips, 3 lots of insect repellent (at least one dating back 8 years) and 2 jars of Vaseline, hardly touched.

    I possess 7 tubes/bottles of sunscreen, and 4 of aftersun. What a waste of space and money, not finishing one before buying another.. And also 4 body moisturisers. Now, this category is a grey area. One could argue it is not required at all, and yet, my vanity tells me I need to moisturise my torso and limbs after every shower – surely a generic own brand basic moisturiser wouldn’t hurt? Or perhaps buy one from Neals Yard in a glass jar not plastic to salve my conscience? I’ve parked this one, vowing to make a decision once supplies run out.

    Finally, extraordinarily, I have 6 face masks! One of which I stole from a department store counter when I was in my mid-20s. Well, no need to worry about not going to the beauty school. If I’m that desperate for a facial, I have all the requirements in house.

    The contents of the bedroom are to be explored next month.

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    Expedition of the Month

    A.D.A.M.- Adam’s Days of Alpine Merriment



    January saw, for the most part, unseasonal, stunning weather – temps topped 70ºF for much of the month. For Adam’s 30-twelfth birthday we drove up to Tahoe for the long Martin Luther King weekend – Colman actually got a day off! Jen came with us on the way up and we shared Esme-entertaining duties – thanks me dear.


    We were staying in Adam’s friend Josh’s friend’s rather swanky and very spacious chalet in Truckee. Although there was snow everywhere, it was rather compacted and icy; luckily all roads totally clear.

    Ski Saturday

    Saturday was another brilliantly sunny day. Five of us, Adam, Jen, Gerardo, Josh and I, hit the slopes at 1960 Winter Olympic resort Squaw Valley; Jen the only boarder. The views from the top towards the lake are stupendous, the runs pretty exciting.


    It had been a year since I had skied (and that was the first time in 8 years) and I was definitely the worst skier of the party. The others kindly waited for me at intervals, and humoured my vertigo on ski lifts by pulling the bar down; Adam also helped me extricate myself from an overeager and undertalented snowboarder. Josh was gallant enough to say I had control and style marks even if I was losing points on speed.


    The glittering light was extraordinarily strong, it was positively balmy on the slopes; the snow conditions actually much better than expected. But it was still a sobering sight to see the blood wagon with a body being strapped onto the ski lift. My eyes gave out in the afternoon from the glare and my shins started aching severely so the last couple of runs were matters of endurance rather than enjoyment.


    We returned to darling Esme who had had a lovely day with Colman running around the chalet, and trying her hand at tobogganing nearby which scared her. Colman cooked us dinner befitting his role as chalet girl.

    Adam alarmed Esme by doing his snow angel impersonation after his restorative bubble-filled whirlpool bath with Jen. He made up for it by serenading her with the guitar later on.


    Colman and late arrival Matt played chess with great intensity. The loser of the next game’s forfeit was to make a snow angel outside.
    When Colman realised it was to be him, he whipped his clothes off before you could say ‘shut that door, it’s blooming cold out there’ dived onto the icy balcony, but stymied by its compacted ice rather than soft snow, lay down on the ice before dashing back inside. Still, good show!

    Leisurely Sunday


    Another bright day and a relaxed start. After lunch, Esme, Adam, Jen, Colman and I went for a walk. Josh stayed behind to watch the semi-finals of the Super Bowl featuring his hometown team the Pittsburgh Steelers.


    By a happy coincidence we had brought Esme’s Steelers bib with us, a kind gift from the Pittsburgh Stephensons, which Josh wore with great verve and style.


    We set off down river near the Alpine Meadows turnoff but although the walk was in a tranquil Narnia landscape, dispiritingly it was beside the road, so after a while of listening to cars zooming by we turned back.

    We reached the lake and spent magical hours admiring the shimmering blues, the scoured frozen lakeshore, the snow-capped ring of hills,
    the pock-marked, sculpted and cracked lake ice, the dazzling light sending into strong relief all the eye could see.

    Esme loved wandering around the shore, keeping a wary distance from the piles of snow and ice, staying on the grassy sward and learning how to look through binoculars.


    We took it in turns to wander off and commune with the magnificent lake and clean Alpine air, or, in Adam and Jen’s case, to pose for photos against such a spectacular backdrop.


    That evening, Esme loved her bath in the whirlpool tub, and squealed with excitement after she got out and ran around the open plan living/dining/kitchen area, naked, fat belly sticking out, big grin on her face.
    Some wag quipped, ‘hey Adam, the stripper’s arrived!’; she and Adam then played a game of naked peekaboo around the reclining chair.


    That night was the Birthday Banquet; Josh also in celebratory mood as Pittsburgh had won. Jen and next arrival, pastry chef Maggie, made spring rolls and marinated salmon, followed by Maggie’s sublime chocolate cup cakes. We all read poetry to each other, before the non-parental types descended into party mode, while we retired to our room to deal with Esme who had woken up, uncharacteristically and very tryingly refused to go back to sleep for an hour or more.

    Homeward Bound

    After a morning constitutional down and up the road, looking at all the holiday homes, counting just how many are now up for sale, we packed up and left, leaving the others still slumbering after their mammoth 4am session. Adam and Jen did get up to say goodbye, which was sweet.

    We left at noon. Plenty of time. Clear open roads beckoned. Traffic was a little heavy but moved swiftly. We recalled how hellish the drive back had been last year. Colman drove. The sky blazed blue. I read my Conde Nast Traveller. We listened to The Pretenders’ new album ‘Break up the Concrete’, my Christmas present from my sister, Louise. Esme sang to herself while reading books, happy as a clam. We left the mountains. The sun burnt above. We were now in the Central Valley.


    Suddenly cars skittled in front. A red one, a pickup truck, a swerve, a shunt, into a shiny new Lexus just ahead of us, which skidded to a halt across two lanes. Colman, our hero, had braked at the first sign of a swerve so we stopped 10 yards behind the Lexus. We were the first car not to pile on. We started to breathe. Then heard a travelling scream as a biker, unable to stop, tore up our inside and smashed into the Lexus; she arced through the air onto the tarmac. We all screamed in sympathy and burst out of the car.
    She didn’t move. All traffic halted. Her boyfriend, riding behind her, was incandescent with rage, fright and upset, railing at dangerous driving. Then she did move – relief. It looked as if she got off lightly with just a broken leg and broken nose. People rallied round. Drivers were walking around, slightly dazed, talking in self-justifying terms; none really knew what had happened. All except, perhaps, the driver of the red car who never left her vehicle.

    The police, the helicopter, the ambulance and the towtrucks all arrived pretty swiftly from nearby Vacaville. Esme, who had been initially alarmed when parents dashed out of the car screeching and left her alone for several minutes, revelled in all the excitement of low-flying helicopters, red flashing lights, and motorbikes, and peeing on the freeway on cue, just as the cop approached for a witness statement. He must have thought we were stark raving mad! Colman was No.1 witness. He gave his statement. The police got one lane of traffic moving. We drove off on an empty road, a sizeable queue of rubberneckers on the opposite carriageway, and who knows how long a tailback (we heard later it was 6 hours) behind us. The whole incident took 20 minutes. We were home by 3.30pm. Safe and sound. And very thankful.

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    Inauguration


    01.20.09 (as they write in America)

    All morning I chanted O-Ba-Mah to Esme in preparation, she even said ‘bama’ back to me a few times.

    We watched the inauguration ceremony, bouncing on the bed, with Soren and Lelli. I veered between practical mothering and high emotion, Esme on my knee for much of the service.


    There was manifest joy in everybody. Local shops had signs proclaiming ‘new day, new hope’; many homes kept their campaign posters up for the occasion. Our downstairs neighbour, Kim, managed to get a ticket for the ceremony
    and flew to Washington but the crush of people didn’t let her get near. Click here to read all about her amazing day and the extraordinary scenes in the capital city.

    Here is Felicity’s end of year review, commenting on Obama’s historic victory.

    And we’re so pleased that Mr Wonderful President has hit the ground running and is working to overturn some of the evils of the Bush era so swiftly. There is a way to go, but a great start!

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    Fun with Friends


    Jen’s Birthday

    Jen Daniel turned 35, Julie and James kindly hosted a fun party at their place. Colman had had a busy week that week (quelle toujours) and stayed at home to babysit, so I was out on the razzle.


    The night started badly when I forgot the camera – doh! But after a frantic ring round the guests still en route, and just as I was about to dash back home to get it, very kindly Amy and Geri diverted to collect it.

    There was copious drinking, appetiser munching, a giggle of dolled up ladies, chit-chatting, a good turnout for the group, and a star guest: Abby Featherstone, who’d flown in from Noo Yoick to be with us for the weekend. Fabulous to see her looking great, and as ever on loud wisecracking form.


    Debra and I were the Mums on the Run, more than one person commented that we could be sisters.

    After the cake presentation, all too suddenly it was midnight, and I wended home, grateful, as ever, to have met and be part of the marvellous DLG.




    South Bay Lunches

    Adam, Jen, Colman, Esme and I ventured out of the city to visit friends twice. One Sunday to Menlo Park to see Brian, Jo, Noah and Jemima for a slap up Sunday lunch of melt-in-the-mouth rack of lamb and every conceivable vegetable you could think of.


    Delicious food, no effort spared, including a formidable array of blow-torches deployed on the crème brulees.


    Noah challenged Adam to checkers and Jen to Wii bowling, and everybody to football after lunch.


    The following weekend we met Alan, Eli, Sarah and Zach for lunch in Palo Alto and then explored Stanford campus, on another beautifully sunny and warm day.


    We then retired to their home, where Esme and Zach banged the xylophone and took great delight in every plastic toy within reach.

    Eli and Sarah performed for us.

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    Film


    Films of the Month


    Watching films posted to the house by our movie lending service, Netflix, and the screeners sent as part of my BAFTA membership, don’t constitute buying stuff, thankfully. We watched Mamma Mia on New Year’s Day – about the only possible thing I was capable of after my champagne poisoning.

    That weekend we saw the light and nothing special Caramel from the Lebanon, which had done good business at film festivals, and the heartbreaking, sparse, beautifully played
    I’ve Loved You So Long, which deserves all plaudits. I thought Elsa Zylberstein’s performance as the sister stupendous – perfectly pitched.

    I enjoyed that self-indulgent marriage of Scorsese and the Rolling Stones Shine a Light, a straightforward concert film, definitely would love to see the Stones live.
    We liked melodramatically flourished The Duchess, a story proving that there’s nowt so queer as folk with a masterful performance by Ralph Fiennes,
    Keira Knightley proving she can do more than luminous.


    Adam came over to see W, and fell asleep, yes and snored. Josh Brolin is good but there was a certain amount of ‘what’s the point?’ about the movie. We also fell asleep in The Curious Case of Benjamin Button, a technical tour de force but is lit gloomily, has a very slow and measured pace and our adult characters don’t come into the story for an hour, by which time we were in the land of nod.
    I was the casualty at the Wim Wenders Film Festival at the Castro Theater, after taking painkillers to pre-empt any discomfort from having had my wisdom tooth removed that day, which made me throw up so missed the Q&A afterwards with the auteur - grrr. But Steve, Dayna and I liked the film showcased: Shooting Palermo, stylistically interesting although flawed and featured the rather sexy Campino in the title role.


    Best of the month contenders included the frivolous and funny Vicky Cristina Barcelona, that I loved watching – a real tonic; the slapstick yet black-as-night-humour of Tropic Thunder that had Amy, Geri, Colman and I in stitches; and the intense, big budget, dark and brooding The Dark Knight (seen here in Lego!), which does justify all the hype, for this kind of studio picture.


    But the best one for us was Edge of Heaven, which we knew nothing about at all, and were riveted by. Directed by Fatih Akin (Head On), set in Germany and Turkey, the non-linear narrative explores parents and children, the immigrant experience, and is a keenly observed portrait. We thought it excellent, with standout performances, and has justly won 18 international awards including Best Screenplay at Cannes and the European Film Awards 2007.

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    Bird of the Month


    Our nature walk by the river in Truckee had proved disappointing: slippery under foot, not a whisker of any wildlife, and the constant thrum of passing traffic. Down by the lake, I got pretty close to a flock of Mallards and Common Mergansers diving adroitly and floating serenely in the newly ice-formed harbours and bays, rendered black by the dazzling light bouncing off the aquamarine snow-fringed lake.

    On our last morning in Truckee, Lake Tahoe, the three of us went for a walk along our ice-encrusted road. High thin clouds had started to appear, bleaching out the light. We were accompanied by various dogs and audible icicle-dripping. I’d not expected to see anything, the air was very still and we’d noticed nothing on the walk the day prior.


    And then, I became aware of a light rapid jumble of husky trills, and fluttering action in a group of conifers beside a chalet whose melting roof provided a constant and attractive stream for this gregarious flock. LBJs (Little Brown Jobs), as birders fondly refer to the hard-to-distinguish similar-looking sparrow/pipit/warbler/bunting/finch species, make identification even harder by constant movement. My first instinct was a kind of sparrow as they had uniform brown streaks. But the lack of distinct head markings and a yellowish wash on the wings and breast had me feverishly turning field guide pages while trying to keep the active creatures in view through my binoculars. Surveillance then methodical elimination of options followed by speculation and hesitant suggestion finally produced definitive sighting: a ‘winter finch’, the Pine Siskin Carduelis pinus - almost always in flocks, slender bill and constant feeding on buds and seeds of conifers – a new Life Bird.

    Mural of the Month

    Stencil of the Month


    Bumper Sticker of the Month


    Love and hugs

    Nadine, Colman and Esme xxx
  • Friday, January 16, 2009

    NEW YEAR EVOLUTIONS

    Dearest Family and Friends

    57 Cumberland Street, San Francisco CA 94110

    Phone Number: +1 415 738 2112

    December Highlights

  • Christmas Festivities

  • Film

  • Hugh, Sally, Max and Zack

  • Monterey

  • New Year’s Eve

  • Buying Nothing in 2009

    An Announcement



    Normally my New Year Resolutions are a litany of ‘mores’: achieve more, do more, smile more, keep in touch more, travel more, sleep more, be more - everything but eat more (an ambition eternally doomed).




    But for 2009 I wanted to do something different, have a project for the year that is both a challenge and intellectually interesting.


    So I decided to Buy Nothing for the year and see where that took me, and by extension Esme and Colman. (for further details see below)

    Christmas Festivities



    This was our first Christmas in San Francisco since we moved here, and so we actually bothered to get decorations up and bought a very Castro lichen-and-pussy-willow wreath.
    Esme was fascinated by the lights in all windows, our walks to and from Kristan’s enlivened by the twinkles, sparkles and pulsating seasonal colours of Noe Valley.


    Colman survived the redundancy axe in early December, which cut a big swathe at Yahoo! On a happier note, i-escape reached the great milestone of 1000 hotels and villas live on the site, which represents a great deal of hard work from my colleagues and me.


    Jason and Meredith moved to Australia at the end of the month, and their farewell party in the Wish bar in SOMA organized by Sophia and Gerardo was very good fun.


    Naturally Adam and Jen were in full Santa Claus costume, the rest of us looked more glamorous although less fun. I had had a tragic haircut so wore a hat; Colman just looked cool in his, no ulterior motive.


    We even went to a bar afterwards for some dancing – felt like years since I cut a rug. We look forward to seeing them in Sydney in years to come.


    There was a very enjoyable celebratory Christmas dinner at Kristan and Steve’s with Lelli and Toni. Esme loves her cube with shapes, and enjoyed unwrapping it almost as much. Kristan produced the most delicious sea bass with tahini and pomegranate sauce. Yummo.

    Colman and I went to Grace Cathedral on Christmas Eve for the Festival of Lessons and Carols, a lovely service marred by the lacquered and long-nailed over-made up lady in fitted fuchsia to my left whose violent objections to my singing manifested in her clamping her hands over her ears and turning away from me. I was quite put out!

    DLG Gift Exchange



    This year we broke with the Secret Santa tradition, and went for White Elephant instead. This is where you put all gifts in a pile, draw names/numbers and go in order. First person picks a gift from the pile. Second person either picks a gift from the pile or steals the first person’s gift.

    The third person can then get a gift from the pile or steal the 1st or 2nd person’s gift. After a gift is stolen twice, it cannot be stolen any longer.

    Amy B hosted in her new swanky pad.

    The array of gifts, some even regifted from previous White Elephants, was quite something. I stole the photo holder mobile, thinking that would work for Esme’s room, when in turn it was stolen from me. But I triumphed by stealing in return The Cheese Knife which we had all admired at Julie’s a few weeks previously. Result!

    Christmas Party


    We hosted a Christmas Drinks party with Tom and Kim the Saturday before Christmas, starting with a luncheon first with Patrick, Catherine and Caroline, which was very jolly, and nice to have the old ‘house’ together again.


    It was a very interesting mix, ages ranging from 4 months to late 60s; nationalities from Bulgarian to Indian, Irish to Australian; even a chap with a peg leg in a skirt and Deep dressed up as a Christmas glitter ball. Mulled wine whetted all whistles.




    Jason & Meredith came to say farewell. Laurel, John and Ruby to their last party before moving to Oakland. Fred and Christine to their last party as single people, announcing their engagement and imminent marriage – many congratulations!


    Babies and children ran around in the afternoon (Ava and Caroline thrilled to be reunited); the hard drinking types, including representatives from the DLG, showed up slightly later.


    Adam and Jen presented Esme with an excellent Christmas present: a faux leopardskin double breasted coat to match her Mama – we certainly cut a dash when out together.


    The last guests departed at 11.30, Colman had already gone to bed so wasn’t present in the survivors photo. Tip top party, say so ourselves!

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    Film



    Films of the Month


    The frantic watching of film continued apace. I took Tom to see Clint Eastwood’s Gran Torino at an industry screening at George Lucas’ state of the art preview theatre, only to be greeted with the opening shot of dreary Europe and the caption ‘Berlin 1995’. In fact we were watching Kate Winslet and Ralph Fiennes in The Reader a delicately nuanced film examining the nature of German guilt post-Holocaust, with a standout performance by the 18 year old David Kross.

    I took Armani to see Changeling starring Angelina Jolie who was all eyes, skinny limbs and incredible lips; mostly very good with the odd lapse into melodrama.

    Adam and I chortled through much of Gran Torino, not being the target audience it’s fair to say. Others in the screening room whooped and cheered instead and Clint does do curmudgeon extremely well. I enjoyed the Coen brothers latest, Burn After Reading, a silly and entertaining counterweight to No Country for Old Men. We also watched Keira Knightley and Sienna Miller in The Edge of Love, the wonderfully innovative and moving Persepolis, and really liked the dark, witty, tightly-scripted In Bruges by Martin McDonagh.

    Contenders for the best of the month for us were all very different: the searing, naturalistic and bleak 4 Months, 3 Weeks and 2 Days which we watched with Michelle and Brent; the extraordinary and inspirational documentary Man on Wire; and the beautifully crafted Wall E, which we watched en famille with Hugh, Sally, Max and Zack on Christmas Day.

    But for local content, the best one of the month for us was Milk, which we saw at the Castro Theatre, featured prominently in the movie, that was shot in the ‘hood last year. So moving, a wonderful central performance from Sean Penn as slain first openly gay man elected to public office in California, Harvey Milk, and amazingly topical with the Prop 8 verdict still fresh in our minds.

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    Hugh, Sally, Max and Zack


    Visitors of the Month

    Colman was thrilled to host his brother, No.3, Hugh, and family for Christmas and New Year. We have spent Christmas more with Hugh and Sally than any other family members since Colman and I have been an item.


    They flew in from Ithaca, upstate New York, and stayed at Geoff and Armani’s apartment as they had gone to Europe for 2 weeks.


    We got together for tea and dinner on their first day – the cousins having fun immediately, Esme hero-worshipping Max who was in turn charming to her.


    The family soon oriented themselves in SF, and saw many sights including the Exploratorium, Twin Peaks, Mission Murals, Golden Gate Park, cable cars, Asian-Art Museum, Fisherman’s Wharf and the Conservatory of Flowers, where we met up with Jecca, Billy and Luca. The boys ran around and climbed trees with great enthusiasm.

    Christmas Day

    Started foggy and cleared to a stunning day. We had bought a goose, almost the size of Esme, from Bi-rite (where else), and I pored over recipes for a couple of days, before settling on the stuffing and gravy combo.


    We were joined for Christmas Day by downstairs neighbour, Kim, and our babysitter, Jonathan.


    The boys went to the park with Colman while Esme had a morning nap.


    She was beside herself with excitement on their return. We had a Skype call/webcam with the Stephensons and O’Neills in Dublin, Plymouth and Rio, which was great fun.


    The pile of presents in the corner drew almost equal attention. Max was disconsolate that Esme had more presents than him, despite it being pointed out that he had already had two separate present opening sessions.


    She was blissfully ignorant of such politics, and we kept back half her gifts, which were opened gradually over the next week - thank you family, godparents and friends!


    Sally and Hugh provided champagne, salmon and cream cheese for first course, which kept the wolf from the door until the main event.

    Roasts are easy in many ways, it is all about the timing. Kim had the harder task, cooking red cabbage, brussels sprouts with pancetta and feta, and broccoli with lemon and olives. I was responsible also for the parsnips and potatoes, parboiled then roasted in goose fat.



    My goose was well and truly cooked to perfection. Thanks to Kim as well as Jamie, Nigel and Prue for their contributions! The main meal was a great triumph – gorgeous dishes, excellent wines and delicious goose.


    Jonathan brought the lemon pie and ice cream for dessert. And the meal was rounded off with Niamh’s famous Christmas pudding that we set first; her two sons scoffed it with relish.


    Most of us, excluding Jonathan who drinks sensibly, were a little tipsy at the end of the day, and we were all satisfyingly full to bursting with fine fare.

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    Monterey Weekend


    Adventure of the Month


    We set off the next morning down south in convoy to Monterey.

    My Christmas present to H, S, M and Z was tickets to the famous Aquarium, which was packed to the gunnels for the holidays.


    The kids had a great time, Esme felt seaweed in the touch pools; we all loved the otters, the rescued birds and the wave surge tunnel.


    Esme was a bit alarmed at the darker rooms but cheered up in the marine-themed play area, the three of them posing in the giant clam to charming effect.




    Max and Zack thought the sharks the best; Hugh and Sally liked the spectacularly presented jellyfish.





    We stayed in a Best Western. The children loved running up and down its corridors, Esme squeaking with delight as she chased and was chased by the boys to the refrain of ‘Esme’s got no knickers on’ – no doubt the shape of things to come.




    Point Lobos State Reserve


    On Saturday we headed for Big Sur, which didn’t disappoint.

    Another stunning day, the sea was calm and cobalt, the winds light, and the views ravishing.


    After an hour’s touring the legendary Highway One, we headed north for Point Lobos and had a picnic lunch while Max climbed the nearest tangled tree.

    Then we headed out to the point to see the sealions, clamber on the beach and examine the unusual rock formations created by intrusive granite deposits topped by mudstone, conglomerate and ancient marine terraces.


    On the next headland, densely packed with gnarled lichen-encrusted Monterey cypress, we briefly saw migrating whales, hugely exciting.


    The others played on the shingle and sandstone pavement shore, spotting a fossil trilobite, orange octopus and purple starfish.

    I hot-footed it to Bird Island, sadly rather depleted of birds in the non-nesting season, but nonetheless a gorgeous walk in the sunshine.

    Elkhorn Slough Reserve


    On the warm and sunny Sunday we went for a walk around this reserve, home to the largest tract of tidal salt marsh in California outside of San Francisco Bay.


    It was good of everybody to indulge my hobby, and the boys did pretty well despite the lack of much for them to do other than trudge around the lagoon, through trees and rushes, and across the bridge.


    Esme’s favourite bit was being allowed out of the backpack to trot up and down the aptly named Hummingbird Island; Max liked looking through the telescope.


    We finished with a short frolic on the beach at Moss Landing: Hugh tested the waters for a temperature comparison with the Irish Atlantic, Esme enjoyed the wind whipping her hair, Max made a sandcastle.


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    New Year



    Dan and Dayna’s


    Jonathan kindly babysat for us and we took Hugh and Sally to Dan and Dayna’s annual shindig. Poor Dan broke his leg before Christmas and so was manfully coping with medication mixed with alcohol and a constant stream of concerned ladies eager to mop his fevered brow.



    Dayna looked sensational in a vintage dress – and was the birthday girl with the mostest.


    The table was groaning with excellent food, and we drank champagne in vast quantities all night. Dan’s commode was even pressed into service.




    We met the usual array of fascinating people from porn producers to to film makers to bar tenders turned novelists to opera singers – the latter performed a show stopping ‘Happy Birthday’ for Dayna.


    Also present, looking very glam, were newly weds Arne and Cati.


    We staggered out at 1.30, relieving Jonathan by 2am, as Paula and Ethan’s party didn’t materialize – rather luckily as our hangovers the next day were stonking enough as it was.


    Farewell to Hugh and Sally, Max and Zack


    On New Year’s Day we had brunch together before heading over Golden Gate Bridge to Marin Headlands. The fog cleared to reveal the Golden Gate in all her glory, and the Ithaca Stephensons posed in the wind and sunshine.



    By now I was feeling like death, having woken up with a clear head and only slight queasiness, so my fond farewells were rather truncated, and after getting home had to spend the rest of the afternoon in bed, retching every half an hour – classy. Colman made me promise never to drink more than 2 glasses in one sitting ever again!




    Hugh and Sally, Max and Zack said they had a brilliant time, as did we, and we look forward to the next reunion.

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    Buying Nothing in 2009


    Buy Nothing

    I’m excited about this project for 2009, by its challenges, its opportunities, its social consequences, and will write about them through the year.

    We already strive very hard to minimize our ecological footprint we don’t run a car nor a tumble dryer, everything is recycled, where possible all food consumed is sustainably produced (especially fish and seafood), we only eat ‘happy meat’ (yes we’ve long ago eaten our last foie gras). I already offset all our travel and household emissions. Two years ago I gave up beef on environmental grounds (methane emissions are 18% of greenhouse gases, cattle rearing is least efficient use of land for food by some distance).


    So this challenge to not purchase stuff is not about being green nor about saving money, although these could turn out to be side benefits, it’s more about reducing, both in volume and in terms of the worth we attach to them, and extracting better use of, our existing material possessions.

    No books, CDs, magazines, newspapers, cut flowers, clothes, accessories, underwear, footwear, jewellery, make up, beauty products, art, presents, cards, kitchenware, bedding, luggage, ornaments, haircuts, facials or non-essential household items.

    We are bombarded with images, beset by peer pressure, marketed at to acquire and consume from the bewildering range of goods on display in the capitalist catalogue – a paralysing tyranny of choice. We all possess more stuff than the average monarch in medieval times.


    Stuff wastes hours in maintenance, cleaning, archiving, editing, arranging, storing, protecting it from vermin, cold and heat – time and space you will never regain in your lifetime. Fewer goods should create more space, both physical and mental – it clutters both mind and home, and frees up time to spend on oneself, one’s family, one’s community.


    We haven’t noticed not living with over 60% of our possessions while in San Francisco. True we have less space than in London to fill, but equally we’ve not missed many of the items now mouldering in our attic.


    There are obvious exceptions to Buying Nothing: food, certain toiletries and household items, essential services, memberships. The methodology for choosing which is allowed and which not, will be explored through the year.

    And rules for the items I am allowed to purchase:

    • One Out One In – we have to be down to the last squeeze of the toothpaste tube before the next is bought

    No Bulk Buying/Stockpiling – ignore the 3 for the price of 2 special offer – it may sound cheaper but the surplus items clutter up the place, and stockpiling encourages one to burn through things faster as the supplies are in house

    • Anything for Esme that ‘needs’ to be bought this year has to be second hand

    • I’m not allowed to use Colman to purchase things on my behalf. (He isn’t taking part in the experiment but the domestic arena has traditionally been my fiefdom, so by extension he will be affected)


    I’ve decided that exploring the nature of experience is more enriching than accumulating possessions, thus supporting the arts is not just allowed, it will be positively encouraged in my year of thrift.


    Likewise travel, where possible, is on the agenda. No souvenirs, that’s all.


    I decided to do this in late November and I have to confess I bought some trousers and vintage jewellery knowing they’d be the last purchases for a while. My desk diary for 2009 was bought on the 30th December, just under the wire. And I treated myself to the Omnivores Dilemma and new yoga pants just before Christmas – the last presents to self. However, there were other items I was tempted to stock up on but very deliberately resisted the temptation to do so – sorry darling, the sorely needed underwear upgrade will have to wait another year.


    I am sure I will miss most delving into books and CDs, adding to the jewellery collection, indulging in retail therapy, buying art, luxuriating in facials and beauty products, browsing vintage shops, art and antiques fairs.

    Not buying presents will be very hard – I love getting gifts for family and friends – Dayna the lucky recipient of the last birthday present bought in 2008 for her landmark special day.

    And sending my signature postcards will have to go – to create them requires getting the photos printed out, buying card, glue and a stamp – boo.

    But hopefully these self-imposed limits will encourage me to come up with creative solutions, make me value my existing possessions that much more, engage with my community in sharing and bartering goods and services, and teach me much about myself.

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    2008


    Highlights

    So many! Getting to know the incomparable and charming, beautiful and engaging Esme as she achieved each developmental milestone. Skiing for the first time in 7 years in Tahoe in January. Sharing our days with Lelli and Soren and family. The neverending party that is Adam and Jen. Our birthday party in February. Winning the Golden ‘Gina at the Oscars. Santa Cruz in March. The Yucatan in April – our first family holiday. The extraordinary excellence of the DLG. Point Reyes in May with Mum and Judith. McKerricher State Park with the Lawsons in May. Playdates with Marcus, Isis, Ruby, Georgia. Harbour cruises and yomping in Yosemite with Keith, Karin and Marley. Tahoe and terrific times with Tracey, Tony and India. THE BIG CHILL – perennially the best weekend of the year. Adventures in Patrick’s Point State Park with the Gold-blyths and Hickmans. Esme and Marcus’ joint birthday party in Golden Gate Park. Gastro good times in Sonoma County and Napa with Angie and Graeme. Emily and Niall’s wedding in Dublin. Spending time with Family. The social whirlwind in London – especially the parties in our honour and the i-escape get together. Clear Skies in Clear Lake. Thanksgiving and New Year with Dan and Dayna. Christmas with Hugh, Sally, Max and Zack. Dancing in the streets for the Obama victory when at long last Hope Won!

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    Bird of the Month


    The weather was stunning all weekend in Monterey, and despite our busy agenda and children running around all over the place, managed to see 44 different bird species – including Osprey fishing off Point Lobos, energetic Bufflehead, secretive Common Loon, graceful Bonaparte’s Gull and Pied-billed Grebe displaying on Elkhorn Slough, and the last, a Great Egret, spotted grazing on the freeway verges driving back into San Francisco as the light faded.


    New Life Birds this month included the uncommon Say’s Phoebe, wintering on the coast, flashing past as we clambered over the rocks at Point Lobos. On my solo walk at Point Lobos, I saw America’s smallest woodpecker, the 6.75” Downy Woodpecker. And at long last a positive identification of the distinctive citrine yellow and glossy black Townsend Warbler. At Elkhorn Slough, a group of birders helped me identify the 4” Ruby-Crowned Kinglet high in the branches above.


    Kindly, everybody allowed me another 10 minutes of hanging over the end of the bridge at Moss Landing before heading home on our last day to discern the identity of a flock of ‘peeps’. These little waders never halt, constantly scurrying and darting, probing and bobbing, and at 6” in length and always seen from a distance, are hard to make out distinguishing features. However, triumph! Their yellow legs positively identified them as Least Sandpiper Calidris minutilla.


    On the drive back to SF, Colman went through the bird book testing my memory of the birds seen so far in two years of living in California: 145 in total so far but with about 600 potentials in the state, I obviously need to get out more!

    Mural of the Month

    Stencil of the Month

    Bumper Sticker of the Month

    Be Nice To Your Kids As They’ll Choose Your Nursing Home


    Love and hugs

    Nadine, Colman and Esme xxx
  • Sunday, December 14, 2008


    YES WE CAN

    Dearest Family and Friends

    57 Cumberland Street, San Francisco CA 94110

    Phone Number: +1 415 738 2112

    November Highlights

  • She’s Walking

  • What a Week

  • Yes We Can

  • Prop 8

  • Film

  • Thanksgiving

  • Clear Lake


    Esme



    Walking is Where It’s At

    She falls over often with a plop, but gets up quickly.

    Tiny feet stomping about the apartment, belly out.



    Thanks for the shoes Tim and Andi – most useful!


    She loves playing with keys, wallets, our DVD collection and telephones, and has called several people already.

    And she understands so much now – communication is improving daily.

    Aeroplanes catch her attention always.

    She’s very vocal if not comprehensible.

    Reading books remains at the top of her compulsions.

    She’s much more confident in herself and with other people.

    And mealtimes are great fun and easy, she’s up for experimenting and trying everything still.

    Banging and beating rhythms, trying to sing - we're sure she loves music.

    Emotions are clearly writ: here she’s expressing her view that the walk along Tennessee Valley one Saturday in the rain was not at all a matter of retrospective enjoyment.

    But Kristan and I begged to differ!


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    What a Week


    The First Week of November

    What a Week. How lucky we are to be living in San Francisco at this time!

    On Saturday 1st November we headed up to Marin, over the bridge, for a Wine Afternoon at Patrick and Catherine’s new place in Fairfax. It was terrific fun; an excellent afternoon. Two wines were being explored: Sauvignon Blanc and Petit Syrah, chosen to accompany oysters and lamb. Everybody contributed, the conversation flew fast and wine was drunk.

    Each participant had a portrait photo taken with their wine glass. Patrick wore his 01.20.09 T-shirt, which he’s been sporting for over a year now – the palpable sense of impatience for regime change pervaded the country.

    Caroline played with Esme, who loved toddling about the place, and just as I said airily, ‘oh she’s fine on sofas – feet first darling!’ and turned back to resume my point on whatever topic was under debate, fell off the sofa spectacularly. No lasting damage.

    Colman wore his Halloween outfit to get the maximum value out of hiring it, and was quite sozzled by the time we got home. Funny that.


    Day of the Dead

    Mexicans mark Día de los Muertos on the 1st and 2nd of November. A spectacular march through the Mission is held on the second evening to mark the end of the festivities. The celebrations remember friends and relatives who have died, an amalgamation of an Aztec festival with the Christian All Saints’ Day and All Souls’ Day.

    A fabulous atmospheric Sunday night, empty streets, apart from the procession, which featured representation from every San Franciscan tribe; people dressed up in ghoulish garb. I was strangely naked in normal street clothes; you can always count on Adam and Jen to be decked out in appropriate attire.

    The throng featured a group all dressed in red who ‘died’ every 100 yards and came to life again singing Staying Alive, stilt-walkers, a wonderful phantom carriage and drummers dressed as skeletons.


    The procession ended at the school playground where shrines to lost loved ones were adorned with candles, marigolds, offerings and poignant notes to the dead.

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    A New Dawn

    Tuesday 4th November was a stunningly beautiful day. As usual I was up before sunrise to take this picture looking East towards the Berkeley and Oakland hills.

    I had a flurry of errands and so Esme and I witnessed queues at the polling stations, everybody sporting ‘I voted’ stickers; flags flying; strangers engaging each other in conversation on the Muni expressing their hope that we would witness historic, momentous, long overdue and exceedingly welcome change; people waving placards at road junctions exhorting us to Vote No on Proposition 8; and a really tangible awareness of a watershed moment.

    We spent the day with fellow non-voters Armani and Marcus at the newly reopened California Academy of Sciences, "the only place on the planet with an aquarium, planetarium, and a natural history museum under one living roof."

    This flagship eco-refurbished building (the only Platinum certified LEED structure) has a 1ha living roof, 90% natural light,
    recycled denim wall insulation, and features an albino alligator.

    I really thought it was a plastic prop until it moved.

    We only had time to see the aquarium, which was Esme’s first. She goggled at the enormous fish tanks and made the signal for bath – yes the fish are having a bath.

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    Yes We Can


    Election Night

    Back at home the first results had started to come in. All pundits playing it carefully, to not jeopardize voter turnout in later time zones. But it was obvious that victory was Obama’s when he won Pennsylvania by 6.20pm PST. I’d kept Esme awake nearly all day in the hope that she’d go to bed early. And by 7 she was shattered, and I galloped downstairs to Tom and Kim’s, taking the monitor with me.


    It was truly tremendous. Joined by Adam and Jen, we polished off 4 bottles of champagne, firstly for Jen’s birthday, and then to celebrate the victory, declared rather surreally when the electoral college totals leapt in Obama’s favour, as soon as the California polls closed at 8pm PST.

    Colman was working hard that week and made it in the door just in time for the speeches. Apparently I told him off for looking so middle-aged in his jumper; conveniently ignoring the fact that I’d bought it for him last Christmas… McCain’s concession speech was half-an-hour later, Obama’s acceptance speech to 250,000 in Chicago thereafter.

    “If there is anyone out there who still doubts that America is a place where all things are possible, who still wonders if the dream of our founders is alive in our time, who still questions the power of our democracy, tonight is your answer.

    It's the answer spoken by young and old, rich and poor, Democrat and Republican, black, white, Hispanic, Asian, Native American, gay, straight, disabled and not disabled. Americans who sent a message to the world that we have never been just a collection of individuals or a collection of red states and blue states.

    We are, and always will be, the United States of America.

    It's the answer that led those who've been told for so long by so many to be cynical and fearful and doubtful about what we can achieve to put their hands on the arc of history and bend it once more toward the hope of a better day.

    It's been a long time coming, but tonight, because of what we did on this date in this election at this defining moment change has come to America.”


    I had tears in my eyes, and a song in my heart. Quick consumption of champagne rendered me completely unable to take in Tom’s erudite dissection of the vagaries of the US system, and comparisons of previous elections. I do recall him telling me such a quick result is pretty unusual.

    Tom himself is an elected Director of the BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) and was up for re-election. He seemed remarkably sanguine about the whole process, we found out later he won 84% of the vote, more than Barack Obama in San Francisco (83%), only bested by Mark Leno. Congratulations Tom!


    For those who remember the proposal to rename the sewage plant after GWB (hard to even write his name without shuddering), the proposition failed. A good thing as the sewage plant is way more worthy and useful than GWB.

    Colman had to go back upstairs to work, so all revved up we (Adam, Jen, Kim and I) charged up to the Castro for dancing in the street - everybody so happy, smiling, texting, taking pictures, waving flags, brandishing placards, swigging champagne.


    Definitely the worse for wear now, I recall a nice friend of Adam’s putting me on his shoulders to take more pictures - with sometimes mixed results...


    Gay State Senator Mark Leno called the crowd to carry on the fight – at this point it was too close to call for Prop 8 but it wasn’t looking too hopeful – and he was greeted with cheers.

    I stumbled back down to home with Kim, babbling 19 to the 12, barely drawing breath, she listened with good grace! I collapsed into bed at about 1, Colman was still up working, and grumbled hard at him when he came to bed at 3am – yes 3 a m – and even harder when he got up at 5.30 to get the early bus, my head was throbbing quite a bit.

    Esme woke at 6.15, much to my disgust. I crawled out of bed, changed her nappy, stuck her on the breast, she wanted to read a book but I could only just open the page and stab my finger at pictures, unable to speak.

    An intelligent child, she looked at me askance and decided to amuse herself. I slumped back to bed. She came and found me an hour later wanting breakfast. This was a bit of an ordeal but I made it through, and dressed her. When the nanny arrived at 9am, a lady I’d met precisely twice in my life before (Lelli was on holiday), I dumped Esme on her and staggered back to bed, calling in too ill from alcohol to work today, for the first (and believe me, last) time in my entire working career. Luckily they were very understanding, calling it a darn good cause!

    My father phoned to congratulate me on my new president. I couldn’t even lift my head off the pillow, and spoke single monotonous syllables. My landlord phoned to tell me that they were sanding the floors in the apartment below today – earsplitting machinery being just the ticket.

    I had recovered enough by mid-afternoon to watch Oprah, just about my intellectual level by this point, and also very moving. She wore a T-shirt saying Hope Won and related that she was so emotional in the crowd in Chicago the night before (as broadcast to the nation), that she didn’t know who the chap beside her on whose shoulder she’d been weeping was.

    The nanny had to be asked to stay on an extra hour for me to get my act together, by 5.30 I was just about back in the land of the living. Weirdly I don’t recall drinking that much, and the last photos of the night have Jen the teetotaller looking drunker than me…

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    Prop 8


    Obama’s Victory Analysis

    It was a phenomenal occasion, endorphins rushing, everybody was smiling so much all week, and the world reaction was so gratifying; emotion swells in me as I type. Obama is the first bi-racial President, the first born outside the Lower 48, the first to have been born in the 1960s. However, soberly there is less cause for optimism.

    He has been handed a poisoned chalice: constrained by a failing global economy, huge disparities of wealth, looming environmental catastrophe, and bitter divisions at home, and sensibly has acted swiftly to dampen the great expectations raised by his great victory.

    Despite a corrupt and discredited ruling administration headed by an almost universally despised President, despite the worst financial crisis in 70 years, and a flawed and ageing opponent, and even Obama’s own manifestly superior talents, (calm rational thinking, powerful rhetoric and ability to connect to all levels of Americans and mobilize an effective grass roots campaign [he spent $9.67/vote cast for him]), he still secured only 52% of the popular vote, although at 62m that is more votes than any other Presidential candidate in history, and less 30% of US counties. 46% of Americans didn’t vote for him, and 60m voted for McCain (who spent $6.33/vote), a reminder how conservative a place America really is.

    Prop 8 Demo

    Even in California, the touchstone for progressive legislation and social change, Proposition 8, which wanted to enshrine in the constitution the definition of marriage as a union between a man and a woman, actually passed, horrifying our friends and neighbours.


    It was some comfort that the margin of victory was so tight (52:48), when originally polls showed the Yes camp to have been 15 points ahead. (Both camps spent a fortune on TV spots, newspaper advertising and viral marketing – it is one of the most expensive ballot measures ever seen in the US – totalling over $73m.)
    And also that Obama mentioned both gay and straight in his acceptance speech. Also that America’s first openly gay Congressman was elected – in Colorado of all places. And various ballot measures around the country to restrict abortion rights failed.

    However, the resulting anger and upset in the community took the shine off the Obama victory for many of us, particularly the DLG.

    On the evening Friday 7th November a demo against the passage of Prop 8 ended up in Dolores Park. I shot down there for 20 minutes to join in the chanting and take pictures.


    Traffic stopped, shouting was loud, emotions very high. Many blamed the Mormon church who had donated large sums to the Yes campaign and stirred up a campaign of hate and homophobia.

    We hosted Jason and Jim for dinner that night to congratulate them on their marriage (which still stands) along with Amy and Akhil; Colman finally able to relax after his extreme week of work so became rather excitable and drunken. What a week.

    Demo

    The following weekend we took Esme to City Hall for the demonstration against the measure passing, one of many that occurred throughout the state. We joined Jason and Jim, Jen, Jen and Amy.

    It was a ferociously hot day for November, Esme wilted in the sunshine. She clapped when the crowd clapped, was fascinated by the banners and loved walking through the forest of legs. Many speeches were very inspiring.

    Legal challenges have been issued against the measure. December 10th was designated the No Gay for a Day - homosexuals urged to get ‘Lavender Flu’ and not work in protest. There are calls to boycott Sundance as it is held in Utah, to boycott cinema chains whose owner donated to the Yes campaign; the director of the LA Film Festival was forced to resign after donating to the Yes campaign. Funny or Die produced this three minute mini-musical, starring Jack Black among others, which says it all really:

    Prop 8 The Musical

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    Film


    Film of the Month
    It’s that Awards season time again when I have to see as many films as possible to vote for the BAFTAs. This happily coincides with autumnal evenings and our propensity for staying in 5 nights a week. The Visitor is a thoughtful film about communication, immigration and passion, a poised central performance from Richard Jenkins. I took Colman to both Frost/Nixon - fabulous period detail, superb performance by Frank Langella as Nixon, and a great example of how to turn a play into a compelling film (thanks Adam & Jen for babysitting) – and Slumdog Millionaire. Vibrant, visceral and very fantastical, this tells how a chai wallah boy from the slums of Mumbai wins the prize on TV’s biggest quiz show because he knows the answers. Minor plot holes only bubbled up when analyzing the film later on, we loved the ride, the music, Dev Patel’s beautifully underplayed lead, and its condemnations and celebrations of humanity.

    Film Event of the Month

    My favourite film EVER is Some Like it Hot which played at the Castro Theatre featuring a personal appearance and interview with the legend that is Tony Curtis . An event not to be missed; throughout the film I had a grin ear to ear. It was the first time I’d seen it on the big screen – sheer bliss – and it benefitted from being shown in the Castro: when Daphne comes back from her night tangoing with Osgood shaking her maracas, and Joe/Josephine demands ‘why would a guy marry a guy?’ and the answer is ‘security!’, it brought the house down.

    Tony didn’t disappoint: he related how Marilyn 'ground him like coffee’ through every take in the seduction scene on the boat and how her insecurities killed her in the end; that he used to be the celebrity couple du jour when married to Janet Leigh; that he knew every ethnic actor from growing up in the Bronx; he touched on the death of this son through heroin; referred to the great sex life he still has at 83 with his 5th wife, and wore a big white Stetson.

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    Thanksgiving


    Seasonal Event of the Month

    To Dan and Dayna’s as last year – we were 11 to lunch. We did know what to expect but still managed to gorge ourselves to an obscene extent. There were cinnamon roasted sweet potatoes, succulent organic turkey, two kinds of cranberry sauce, creamed potatoes, mushroom stuffing, home-baked cheese biscuits.

    After three helpings, I was then confronted with pudding – a slice each of pumpkin pecan cheesecake and cherry pie: it was physically impossible for me to eat another mouthful. But mind can overcome matter – it took an hour but I did force every crumb down. Well it’s the principle of the thing.

    Dan and Dayna were very kind in allowing Esme to attend She was an angel at dinner, especially when she then went to sleep like a lamb and didn’t wake until we went home.

    After dinner Adam, Dan and Maia retired upstairs to the pool room for selections from Adam’s Big Book of Rock songbook.

    When the others rejoined us they expressed surprise at the lack of a Colman in our choir. Further investigation revealed my beloved resting his eyes on the chaise longue. Time for Bed… Thanks Dan and Dayna – a superb feast and a special day.

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    Clear Skies in Clear Lake


    Expedition of the Month

    The day after Thanksgiving, bright and sunny, we drove North 2.5 hrs along Highway 101, then turning right and twisting over the hills to reach Clear Lake, the largest lake completely in California (Tahoe straddles Nevada).

    Lakeport is a classic rural lakeside American town whose visitors are mostly domestic, and whose season is summer.
    We arrived on Black Friday – the day traditionally when Americans shop in record numbers. So, when in Rome. We strolled along Main Street, one block from the lakeshore, with its sponsored lampposts, vacant lots, hobbyist shops (including Strings and Things for all things guitar; one lady offered dolls of the world along with waxing) and lake glimpses.

    Two blocks hold the original late 19th-century buildings: former banks now house vintage and ‘heritage’ wares; windows were Christmas-decorated within an inch of their lives (useful for keeping Esme amused); the requisite Chinese never seemed to have any customers; most popular being the obligatory Irish pub where we dined.

    Skies were clear affording us stellar views of the conjunction of Jupiter and Venus. Our comfy room (decked in mostly tasteful Victoriana) in the Arbor House Inn had a maroon triangular Jacuzzi so every night we had a family bath which was great fun, then straight to bed by 8 for Esme and 9 for us. Our hosts were very laid back, and delightful with Esme – delicious breakfasts too (waffles with maple syrup and bacon one morning, spinach and ham frittatas the other) – which was a relief after we popped in to the original choice B&B to visit their Christmas Fayre. Colman’s face was a picture when confronted with no fewer than four rooms of Christmas decorations and a Rockin’ Around the Christmas Tree perpetual soundtrack.

    Clear Lake State Park


    Clear Lake itself was idyllic. Framed by dormont Konocti volcano to the south-east, and edged by hills lit russet by the setting sun, the water mirrored the late autumnal shimmering skies we enjoyed all weekend. Coverts of coot, solitary grebes lithely flip-diving into the depths, cackling ducks with their V-shaped take-off and landing ripples, and the occasional motor boat, were all that disturbed the still waters.


    On the Saturday, we had a blissful time in Clear Lake State Park. Tobacco-hued leaves relinquished their hold on the stem and fluttered down around us; turkey vultures wheeled in thermals above; all the campsites bar one were deserted.


    From the bridge we watched grebes fishing with aplomb, drank in the sight of the rich autumnal colours on the bank reflected in the still waters below.

    A lake beach presented Esme with an opportunity to commune with pebbles while camouflaged killdeer probed the silica for sustenance beside us.

    Our walk took us high up overlooking Soda Bay and back towards Lakeport through shaded meadows, mixed woods especially oak rich with berries and lichen, and open country.
    I demonstrated cartwheels to Esme who looked suitably impressed until a pile of leaves proved more fascinating. It was amazingly warm. Not a cloud in the sky.

    Esme was so alive to this world preparing itself for regeneration all around she held off from napping in the backpack for hours. By the time she did fall asleep we were nearly back at the car park, Colman met a fabulous New Age lady of a great many years (a War Bride originally from London) who took one look at sleeping Esme and proclaimed her to be either a Rainbow or a Crystal child from another star whose destiny is to bring us great joy and amazing energy and spirituality to this world. Our thoughts exactly.

    We spent late afternoon perambulating through Lakeport’s 4th Annual Dickens Christmas Market where Main St was blocked to traffic, a small stage hosted local musical talent, Santa’s Workshop did a busy trade, stallholders were clad in top hats and crinolines. What would Scrooge have made of the snowboards and extraordinary number of plastic trinkets for sale? We travelled back via the lake, Esme getting very excited by dogs, ducks, and a gaggle of geese feeding on the water meadow.

    On our final morning, she woke just before dawn, and we went down to the lake to see the sun casting its dazzling light on the water, and bustling waterbirds. She loved playing with the leaves and had to be dissuaded forcefully from walking into the lake.

    While she napped, Colman and I took it in turns for private sojourns beside the lake; his of a far deeper and poetic nature, while I wielded camera and binoculars and wrestled with identifications: Common or Red-Breasted Merganser, Clark or Western Grebe?

    The perfect restful lovely weekend away.

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    Bird of the Month

    Hard to choose one out of so many. We saw over 30 different species in Clear Lake, not bad considering it wasn’t during the breeding, chick-feeding nor migration season. A close contender for the accolade this month was the Albino Horned Grebe I saw on my last morning in Lakeport, but I didn’t have my telephoto lens so couldn’t do justice to this rather beautiful freak of nature.

    Similarly, the sheer volume of American Coots and their shoal-like behaviour put them into contention.

    But the prize goes to the clown-faced, red-topped Acorn Woodpecker Melanerpes formicivorus sighted in Clear Lake State Park, for demonstrating it’s USP so beautifully. This bird lives in oak woods and spends hours whittling out holes in branches, usually on one tree known as the Granary Tree, to store acorns. We saw trunks literally studded with acorns and woodpeckers drumming away with huge purpose; apparently some ‘granaries’ can hold as many as 50,000 acorns.



    Mural of the Month


    Stencil of the Month
    Only in San Francisco is the graffiti so right on...




    Bumper Sticker of the Month

    Our National Health Plan: Don’t Get Sick

    Love and hugs

    Nadine, Colman and Esme xxx

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