DOWN MEXICO WAY / GATHER YE ROSEBUDS WHILE YE MAYDearest Family and Friends
57 Cumberland Street, San Francisco CA 94110
Phone Number: +1 415 738 2112
Nadine 415 595 0023
Skype: nadinemellor
Esme
April Highlights
May Highlights
Esme
Eight Months
What a DARLING. She’s so happy and sunny – greeting us with gummy grins and squeals of excitement first thing in the morning, thrilled to be alive in this brave new world.
She sings to us; Colman roars at her and she squeaks back delightedly.
Everything is an adventure; all this virgin territory is to be examined, conquered, experienced and understood: textures, sounds colours. Boundaries are being established – in our minds only so far. 
We are now implementing some babyproofing so she can explore safely.
She can now clap, wave (randomly and intermittently) and crawl properly although she still prefers commando-style wriggling manoeuvres, and much prefers being naked. 
We have to chase after her with diaper or clothes. Yes “commando” in that sense too.
She performs a range of yoga poses including the splits. She pulls herself to standing and wobbles fearlessly when upright, before falling with a plop to sitting again, or to measure her length.
Her mother’s genes are in evidence at meal times – she likes everything, eats three good meals a day – 
we make purees of fruit and veg in ice cube trays. And now, hallelujah, she drinks from any receptacle – including caps of water bottles, sippy cups (thanks Mum), other babies’ bottles (she does a good smash and grab raid) and my mouth.
A mysterious mild rash on her back, chest and neck comes and goes. Probably something to do with 
her ever-increasing diet but we’ve been a bit slack in narrowing down any probable cause. And it has on at least two occasions been triggered by heat – 
she’s definitely Irish when it comes to high temperatures and humidity. It also seems to come up when she’s agitated.
Still my little wide-mouthed vampire, she opens blue eyes wide to assess situations then charms strangers and friends with her smiles.
Two teeth are now through on the lower jaw – and she has taken to wrinkling up her nose, puckering up her lips and sucking air in and out, chin up. Very endearing.
We had another potty pause for about a week, and now are back on track again. But it is harder to interpret the noises she makes – previously when less active and more mute it was easier to identify her sounds as ‘potty’ requests. 
When out and about it is still very straightforward and works very well, we miss more at home. She’s very aware when she’s wet, definitely communicates her needs to us in general, 
and is very familiar with bathrooms, sinks, flushing toilets and flowerbeds, and much happier when diaperless, which she is more and more. Full details of all incidents involving pees, diapers, potties and worse, supplied on request.
Baby Fun
We’ve been to picnics in Dolores Park – one time with Geoff, Armani and Marcus – 
Esme and he play very well together. This was just before Ron and Louisa departed back to the UK.
And another time for Laurel’s birthday – Ruby is growing up fast.
Kristan organised an excursion to Golden Gate Park which has a state of the art children’s playground – 
Esme LOVES the bucket swings – whether on her own or sharing with Soren.
Soren and Esme are interacting more, they’re developing in tandem, both always more intrigued by the object in the other’s hand than their own. 
Nanny Lelli takes them out and about every day; Esme helps Lelli with her English homework on occasion.
We hosted afternoon tea in the garden on the hottest day of the year (a record-busting 97ºF – that’s 39ºC in new money – hence Esme's nudity) for Lelli and all her babies.
Plus new friends Zoey and Selina, twin daughters of newest DLG member, Tracey.
Six all at once – collective noun should be a “chaos” of babies.
The heat spell continued for 4 days.
Patrick, Catherine and Caroline brought out the paddling pool and we all hung out in our beautiful garden.
Tom makes an excellent child minder.
We still make Pilates and yoga classes every week – how else is she to perfect her downward dog?
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April Highlights
Mexico
Our first family holiday. We were a tad ambitious – it was pretty hot and humid for much of the week. We stayed in 4 different hotels. In 3 different locations. And Esme developed a cold on her 2nd night, which prevented her sleeping properly for 3 nights (quite stressful and tiring), and saw me catch the cold by the end of the week – no wonder as I was sucking her nose out to keep her breathing. Nonetheless we had a great week, seeing and doing much, including relaxing!
However, our camera was stolen out of our hold luggage on the way home with 100s of images on the memory chip still inside. No doubt you’re sorry, yet strangely relieved at being spared our endless holiday snaps – we estimate about 600… So the moral is don’t put your camera in the hold, take the memory chip out if you can’t carry the camera on your person. Thanks for the photo, Adam! Says it all.
We flew to Merida, capital of the Yucatan We sat next to a lovely fat Mexican chap on the final flight who, in common with all his compatriots we encountered, thought Esme just adorable. Mexicans love children; Colman felt like a film star, as he did the main Esme-carrying, crowds parting in adulation.
Merida has some wonderful colonial buildings, including an unusually austere venerable Cathedral, and a vibrant artistic and cultural heritage. We stayed in Merida for 3 nights at stylish mansion Villa @ Merida . Fortuitously our visit coincided with Domingo en Merida where central streets are blocked off for a weekly party. Music played on every street corner, old-timers dressed in their Sunday best danced in the square, hawkers and market stalls everywhere. Esme’s were eyes wide as saucers at the colours and sounds. We loved the Museum of Anthropology for informative displays on Maya culture, an excellent tour guide and most crucially for being cool in the noonday heat. 
From here we travelled to Chichen Itza staying right next to the archaeological site at Hacienda Chichen,
which had a lovely pool surrounded by tropical gardens (full of birds) where we relaxed after a hot afternoon sightseeing around the terrific Maya ruins.
Our next destination was unspoiled Isla Holbox, off the North-eastern tip of the Yucatan peninsula. Here, where the Caribbean Sea meets the Gulf of Mexico, life is simple. Fishing is the island’s mainstay, tourism is only now beginning to make its presence felt, golf carts the only vehicles on sand roads.
Bird-life, swimming, kite-surfing and boat tours were the main activities. Thanks to new friends, Douglas and Jaime, we have some pictures of Isla Holbox.
We stayed at two places: firstly efficient Xaloc Resort which had two pools surrounded 
by well-designed cool palapas, right on the beach.Then, next door, at stylish CasaSandra owned by Cuban poet and writer, Sandra.
Here we had a very swish room (although quite hot) overlooking the long white sandy beach towards the setting sun, and marvellous Cuban-Mexican food, and the staff were wonderful with Esme.
Here she and I swam in the pool, trying out her Aussie swimming costume for the first time; my personal highlight of our holiday, laughing and hugging and singing and floating in the water.
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April Bird of the Month
A hard choice as we saw 49 different lovely birds in Mexico – including 21 Life Birds! There was a bird of the day, culminating in bird of the holiday. In Chichen Itza we loved Turquoise-Browed Motmot, seen flying over the cenote (limestone sinkhole) where children were flung in sacrifice to the gods to bring rain. In the grounds of Hacienda Chichen the Yellow-Faced Grassquit bobbed and busied himself. We did a guided birdwatch here and also saw Squirrel Cuckoo, White-fronted Parrot, Hooded Oriole, Cinnamon Hummingbird and Clay-coloured Robin.
On Isla Holbox we thrilled to get amazingly close to Magnificent Frigatebird, their sleek outlines normally float in the air high above, but on the aptly named Bird Island you can get within 10 metres. Stunning. The punkish Reddish Egret has an unkempt grace; the Tricolored Heron an exact stabbing motion. Here we also saw Palm Warbler, I carefully stalked the Zenaida Dove, the Black Tern has an elegant flight, and a Tropical Mockingbird sang tunefully outside our casita at Xaloc Resort.But the Bird of the Holiday, no contest really, was Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber).
They flock to Isla Holbox in their tens of thousands May-September, and we were lucky enough to see the first few arrive. Shocking pink, they contrasted with the green seas.
Mural of the MonthThis is on the beach in Isla Holbox – snorkelling with whale sharks is their main attraction in season – sadly not in April.
Stencil of the Month
Bumper Sticker of the Month
The Best Things in Life Aren’t Things
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May Highlights
Star Visitors of the Month – Carol and Judith
Mum and her sister, Judith, arrived with us Sunday 27th April having driven up from LA (Getty) via Santa Barbara, Hearst Castle, Big Sur and Monterey.They had glorious weather reminisced about childhood days and seemed to spend a lot of time giggling uncontrollably.
We had such a lovely time with them: trips to the ballet, the symphony, the film festival, trips round town, friends round for supper, and out to dinner – at Kristan’s and to Range – thanks Judith! And to Delfina – thanks Mum (and Armani for babysitting).Mum was a star, cooking for us and for Esme, shopping and doing laundry.
Most importantly, they hung out a lot with Esme.And luckily, certain developmental milestones – clapping, first tooth, waving – all occurred during their time with us.
Our first outing was to Muir Woods where we did a great 3 mile round trip through the majestic redwoods, Esme strapped to me.It was a lovely sunny day.
We finished the day at Stinson Beach and swung by the Golden Gate Bridge lookout on the way.Top
Expedition of the Month
All five of us went to Point Reyes and stayed in Manka’s very posh converted boathouse for two nights. Talk about rustic chic – super comfortable beds, ingenious bathroom configurations, a massive fireplace, huge living / dining space and a sheltered terrace overlooking Tomales Bay.
We also had our own pier, jutting out over samphire marshes into the Bay. I got up early both mornings to experience the calm, still air and admire the Cliff and Barn Swallows fluttering all around.
Manka’s provided a delicious dinner on the Friday night, we kicked back, drank wine, giggled.
Saturday we went for a big 5 mile hike up to the top of the ridge in Bear Valley in cool lichen-festooned forests, and up through several different ecosystems. 
We checked out the San Andreas Fault exhibit – there’s a fence, which moved 17 feet during the 1906 earthquake, and a long mini-rift valley, which holds Tomales Bay at its northern end - see map below - Bear Valley is between Inverness, where we stayed, and Olema.
Before we left we plucked samphire from the marsh for dinner with Dan and Dayna the following day. We served it with lemon juice as an accompaniment to fish – it was yummo! Excellent foraging!Sunday morning we ambled towards a small lake – sighting vocal Red-Winged Blackbird and Spotted Towhee.
I was so engrossed in trying to identify the sparrows singing all around from their bushtop perches, it was Judith who spotted the White-tailed Kite plunging and soaring over the lake.
Judith left a week before Mum – I always cry when visitors leave and this time the stiff upper lip failed dismally. Lelli took lovely pictures of Esme and Judith in the garden before she left.Mother’s Day DLG
We hosted DLG for the sad and fond farewell to Abby who moved to New York at the end of April. Colman met up with her 3 weeks later and got hammered on a Tuesday night in Manhattan – way to go!
While Mum was here, Jen and Amy hosted a special Mother’s Day DLG, which saw a full attendance and gifts of flowers to all the mothers and expectant mothers present..Mum loved meeting the full DLG and was not the first to remark how interesting, intelligent, fun and LOUD a bunch of girls we are!
On Mother’s Day we checked out the annual Designer Showcase House where several interior designers get to re-imagine a room, or stairwell, or corridor. This year they go to do it in a sumptuous Pacific Heights property built in 1905 for a wealthy family, extended and embellished over the years (its Tiffany skylight over the grand staircase and exquisitely carved entrance ceiling were worth the $30 admission alone) before becoming a boarding house. Now glamorous again, the property boasts the ultimate in roof terraces with views across the bay and to the GG Bridge.Top
Napa
Anniversary Surprise Weekend
The following day Mum very kindly volunteered to look after Esme for 24 hours while we had a romantic break – just one week before our 3rd anniversary. Colman arranged a surprise weekend away, which turned out to be Napa - my first visit. We drove up through vineyards, rolling hills and golden light.Restaurant of the Month
Colman’s second surprise turned out to be La Toque in Rutherford. The French-inspired prix fixe five course menu had a choice of two dishes per course, so we went for one each as well as its recommended wine pairing.
Colman started with a delicate asparagus soup, followed by skate, then amazing seared foie gras, ravioli, then a cheese selection, finishing with a fantastic poached pear. I munched with gusto on fluke sashimi, followed by frogs legs (which made me wince thinking about my little frog back at home), duck with tarragon, grilled marinated salmon, then cheese, chocolate brownie to finish. 
We rolled out of there to our classic local motel – the 3rd surprise.Next hot sunny morning, we headed for the Hess Collection - surprise No.4. A small, purpose-built three-storey gallery built beside the eponymous winery. Donald Hess started in the 1960s and now has a Tate Modern worthy collection including Anselm Kiefer, Francis Bacon, Franz Gertsch, The Boyle Family and Andy Goldsworthy.
Surprise No.5 turned out to be visiting Bebe and Ned in their new weekender in St Helena. We had an exquisite lunch in their newly planted and landscaped garden – it felt just like the South of France.
Their house, a labour of love over the past year, is really terrific.
And then frolicked in the pool all afternoon – the highlight being Ned being pulled along by the dog, torpedo style – before going on a walk through the vineyards.
The final surprise was that we went to Napa and Colman didn’t put winery visiting on the agenda!
Farewell to MumMum and I had another few days together – the temperature climbing all the time. Colman went to New York for work; we had quiet times in, and a splendid sunny walk at Fort Funston beside Lake Merced on the ocean side of San Francisco.
The area has fragile sand dunes, which are being restored.We were the only family out and about; the area is clearly No.1 destination for dog walkers – the ratio of canines to humans about 5:1.
So thanks for coming to stay and being so helpful – really lovely to see you – and yes of course the usual waterworks as we parted company!
California Event of the Month
The day Mum left, the California Supreme Court handed down a Ruling regarding marriage equality.
"...retaining the designation of marriage exclusively for opposite sex couples and providing only a separate and distinct designation for same-sex couples may well have the effect of perpetuating a more general premise — now emphatically rejected by this state — that gay individuals and same-sex couples are in some respects “second-class citizens” who may, under the law, be treated differently from, and less favorably than, heterosexual individuals or opposite-sex couples. Under these circumstances, we cannot find that retention of the traditional definition of marriage constitutes a compelling state interest.
Accordingly, we conclude that to the extent the current California statutory provisions limit marriage to opposite-sex couples, these statutes are unconstitutional."This was a hugely emotional day for many of our friends, including Kim, our neighbour, who created and maintains our wonderful garden. As she says, 'It is so important to be considered 1st class citizens, and today we are all equal in California.'
That hot night, the streets were hopping, everybody on a high. Nowhere more so than in the Castro where an impromptu dance party blocked off the streets. Kim is in the bottom of the picture in the middle, wearing a green hat and black tank top, grooving with joy.
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Camping
Adventure of the Month
For the Memorial Day weekend we explored the coastline further north than we had been before. Our destination: MacKerricher State Park just north of Fort Bragg in Mendocino county. Mendocino is famed for its liberal pot-smoking laws and is generally considered to be the last refuge/vanguard of the wild frontier type.
Esme had slept beatifically in the car for most of the 5 hour journey (we’d hit heavy weekend traffic), and remarkably sat pinioned in her seat without demur, while we hoisted the new tent (the Yellow Peril) by the light of the car headlights. It started to rain shortly afterwards.
We were camping with Rob and Jecca, Billy and Luca who had driven up from Burlingame; we all beat a hasty retreat bedwards once tent and bedding were in situ. Then we discovered we had forgotten the pillows – doh!.
Saturday we had a hearty breakfast, all togged up as if we were about to assault the Eiger, then trudged off to the black sandy beach
where the waves crashed on the shore, the wind whipped our faces and the rain spat at us.We all agreed it felt like an authentic British summer holiday.
We battled the elements along the coastal boardwalk, admiring the ocean-lashed rocks, and then around the pretty lake where we stopped for lunch, the rain having eased off.
The boys (7 & 5) doing very well with such tedious adult behaviour as going for boring walks in pointless directions.
That evening we hung out round the campfire after a marvellous dinner thanks mostly to Rob and Jecca who had all the pre-requisite kit (umm, the precise menu details escape me now but it was jolly nice and just the ticket(!)).
Sunday was stunning – beautiful, warm, sunny, not a cloud in the sky. We were tickled by the California Quail that came to visit; “lunch”, said Rob – if you can catch ‘em.
The expedition of the day was to Jug Handle State Reserve for the ecological staircase walk.
An extraordinary natural phenomenon, here the coastal erosion had created five terraces, each 100,000 years and 100ft removed from the previous, each with its own distinct geology and vegetation, crowned by a pygmy forest.So called because the iron bedrock prevented deep root growth resulting in stunted trees.
We did the wonderful 5 mile self-guided nature trail through oaks, pines, redwoods, scrub, beside the stream and finishing at the beach.
At each marker, Colman sang the nature notes to us in the manner of our choosing – we thought his early medieval plain chant the best; the reggae rendition needed a little work.At the beach, Rob determined that the stream had to be dammed. No buts, this was a crucial endeavour, requiring every sinew and muscle fibre.
Jecca and I mused over the essential nature of man, the physical world never allowed to blithely continue its way.Alas for Rob, the water force proved greater than man, and merely diverted around his elaborately constructed dam.
The boys had a great time. If you hold Luca upside down you get more sand than in a sandbag.
The last night was much colder. We huddled round the fire, astounded anew by the wonders of the evening sky, talking nonsense.
A fabulous weekend – thank you Rob and Jecca, Billy and Luca for arranging it.Top
May Bird of the Month
An excellent month for birding with spring migration in full swing and hyper activity as our feathered friends got to matching and hatching. So a very hard decision to choose from all those sighted including new ones.
We also went to bird-friendly destinations such as Point Reyes – weekend birdcount 22 including Life Bird Greater Scaup (took blooming ages to ascertain it wasn’t a Lesser Scaup – the trials we birders must endure) - and MacKerricher State Park – 28 weekend birdcount with two new Life Birds: the odd looking Pied-billed Grebe on the lake near the campsite, and the charming Song Sparrow which serenaded us at our campsite over dinner.
In both locations we saw Osprey. In Point Reyes there were three in the distance, plunging into Tomales Bay, working with a flock of Double-crested Cormorant who were pursuing a shoal of fish. On the steeply shelving beach at MacKerricher State Park we saw a pair hunting right beside us at the water’s edge, catching fish with aplomb while the local fishermen struggled with nets to no avail. This picture was taken by Rob over the lake. And as we packed up the tent to leave we saw one high in the pine tree tearing at its prey with gusto. So for that spectacular show Osprey was Bird of the Weekend.
However, this month’s joint winners were chosen for sheer effort and the reminder that unexpected encounters can be the ones on your doorstep. The morning after the hottest day of the year so far, Esme and I got up very early and went to Randall Museum for a guided birdwatch around Corona Heights, spotting migrants.
It was interesting birding with experts – who casually spoke of ‘mockers’ (Northern Mockingbird) and ‘hummers’ (Anna’s Hummingbird) – and I learned much about migratory habits, rare sightings (apparently I’d missed a Golden Eagle over the city the month before) and behaviour. Esme coped amazingly well in the heat – sipping out of her water beaker, feeding from me while I wielded the camera and binoculars, and being peed at suitable intervals.
We were thrilled to be the first in the group to see the vivid blue Lazuli Bunting (Passerina amoena) flash past – a new Life Bird for us. As was the Black-headed Grosbeak (Pheucticus melanocephalus). We also saw Hooded Oriole (first time in the US, although seen just a few weeks prior in Mexico), American Robin, House Finch, Brown-Headed Cowbird, Western Kingbird, Cedar Waxwing, Lesser Goldfinch and American Goldfinch. And finished with a total bird count of 20, not bad for a Friday morning in the city.
Mural of the Month
Stencil of the MonthBumper Sticker of the Month
One Generation Plants the Trees, the Next Gets the Shade
Love and hugsNadine and Colman xxx
PS Still availability in our social calendar for visitors!
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