Sunday, August 19, 2007

Wedding, Bumps and Babies

Dearest Family and Friends

57 Cumberland Street, San Francisco CA 94110
Phone Number: +1 415 738 2112
Nadine +1 415 595 0023
Colman +1 415 871 9920
Skype: nadinemellor

July Highlights

  • 4th July
  • Kate and Mark’s wedding
  • Dublin
  • London
  • It’s catching…

    Pregnancy Update
    I’ve continued the birthfit training programme although am finding it much harder to mentally relax to do the hypnobirthing exercises and creative visualisations. Sigh – it’s a full time job being pregnant! It’s also been good making new friends at yoga and Pilates – Laurel, Kristan and Armani – and I’ve been feeling well and energetic although beginning to defy the laws of gravity...

    4th July

    Seasonal Event of the Month
    Everybody gets a holiday on the 4th July. I was dreading jingoist flags, cookie cutter parades and Uncle Sams everywhere, but thankfully – perhaps because this is San Francisco – little of this sort of carry on was really in evidence, certainly no more than normal it seemed. Our neighbour changes banners every month so it was no surprise that they marked the occasion.

    Colman took me to the Asian Art Museum next door to Civic Center as a surprise – it was a really warm day and the museum is beautifully serene and cool. The treasures are fascinating and there is a wealth of material to savour. This was followed in contrast by dancing with Sophia and Gerardo at a Sunset dance party – reminiscent of dance parties we go to in London. Apparently it is very unusual for SF to have such beautiful sunny weather on the 4th July and the patrons at Sunset were making the most of it – all sorts of funky outfits, quirky hair dos and curious tattoos were being shaken on the dance floor. Sophia and I were the walking wounded – she recovering after a painful knee operation, and me with my bump, which impeded my cutting a rug in my normal fashion – new shapes needed to be spun instead. The music was good fun – funky hip hop house beats stylee.

    After a fun dinner out we decided on the spur of the moment to go to see the fireworks over the bay. Quick thinking got us a parking spot in Pacific Heights – thanks Rob! – and a great view from a little hill top park. The fireworks were in tandem over Fisherman’s Wharf and the Embarcadero – although we only saw one set. Trademark SF fireworks included the 3D boxes and Saturns; our favourites were the golden shimmers…

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    Nightclub of the Month
    We went to a 007 themed party at the aptly titled Porn Palace with Adam, Sophia, Gerardo, Jamie and Bryson after a posh dinner out at Le Colonial. Racking my brains for an outfit – I cannot recall a single pregnant lady ever gracing a James Bond film – I came up with an evening dress and opera cape. The venue featured a dungeon, a prison cell (yes that's us in it), a spider web made of chains, chains hanging from the ceiling, a wall of S&M tools, and various dance floors and bars. The event didn’t ‘click’ as it should have – a strange Bulgarian foot acrobat show in the middle, one room too crowded, some production glitches – but the music was loungey and fun, and it was good to see this renowned SF space.

    Sunday Outing of the Month
    The San Francisco Symphony plays every year in Dolores Park and we managed a quick sunny half an hour in the park with Sophia, Gerardo and Ava, before heading to the south Bay for Colman’s boss Alan’s son’s Brit Milah. We were very honoured to be invited and it was our first such event. The rabbi was out of central casting – wisecracking, telling kids off, and the consummate professional. It was amazing that Zachary at 8 days old seemed to react so little to the scalpel!

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    Expedition of the Month
    To London on 16th July for our 3 week working holiday. It was an emotional journey as well as a sentimental one – Colman hadn’t been home since September and my last trip was for Grannie’s funeral. We had been forewarned about the terrible weather in the British Isles this summer and it was interesting to see how green the UK is in comparison to California; everything very lush and irrigated. London is crowded and busy still, but so felt like home.

    Kate and Mark's Wedding

    In our first week a torrential downpour saw a month’s rain fall in a few hours. The sky literally turned black and streetlights came on. It was extraordinary. We were blithely playing poker with Laurence and Jane the next night when my mother called to ask if we’d seen the news and the travel information. Naturally not; it transpired that as the West Midlands and much of the M4 corridor was under water; our train, and every other train from Paddington, to Devon the next day for Colman’s cousin Kate’s marriage to Mark had been cancelled. So we got up crack of dawn after less than 6 hours sleep and managed to get onto the first train out of Paddington for 36 hours.

    The journey had a wonderful British quality to it – everybody was reading Harry Potter which had launched at midnight, staring out of the windows at flooded fields, and swapping horror stories of being trapped on the M5 for 15 hours in their cars without food or water, or worse in hotel rooms in London unable to get home. Marvellous to see the British Blitz spirit still in action and our ability to have a good old thrill-seeking moan in the face of disaster!

    We alighted at Bristol to find a station in pandemonium – people running hither and thither like headless chickens until an announcement sent us running back in another direction to a train to Devon due to leave in 5 minutes. Luckily the pregnancy card got me a seat again, we marvelled at the coastal views and we ended up at Newton Abbot a full hour ahead of our original schedule.

    The Wedding
    Our B&B had character by the bucketload especially in the shape of our host who had clearly had a good time in the 1970s and still frequents Glastonbury.

    At the wedding venue we caught up with Pat and Niamh, Colman’s aunt Eilo and cousins Emily, Finbar and Eoin.

    The ceremony was in the garden, the rain held off (about the only place in the UK that weekend), and Kate looked a picture: happy and relaxed – a really lovely day.


    Dinner was a beautifully presented and tasty seafood buffet – as befits a marine biologist. The most charming speech was from Kate’s twin, Emily, who spoke beautifully, informally and with great affection on the experience of being a twin, about their friendship and relationship.

    The dancing was brilliant. The venue had a purpose built cheesey dance floor (dry ice, disco lights, the works) and the DJ was under strict playlist instructions so we all danced for hours.

    A highlight was Colman swapping his trousers for Alastair’s kilt, then followed by Mark and Colman switching outfits. I could see this new trouser-fetish going on all night… People kept offering me their seat but I knew if I sat down and stopped cavorting, that would be it, so held off until 1am when I did collapse somewhat… And then slept 8 hours without stirring.

    Sunday’s excursion – at a civilized late hour - for the surviving members of the wedding party was to the beach at Babbacombe where a few hardy (Irish) souls frolicked in the sea much to my wonder and amazement. (L-R Eoin, Emily, Colman, Kate, Finbar) The sun shone, the cliffs were red and the sea was turquoise. Truly the English Riviera has its own exquisite beauty.

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    Dublin

    R & R
    We all flew back to Dublin on the Monday. The skies were leaden, relaxation was on the menu. We stayed in 3 hotels: the Dylan which is a new hotel in Dublin 4 with excellent service, a high design quotient (really comfy beds, bold customised furniture) and a swanky restaurant; Brownes on St Stephen’s Green constructed in a classic Georgian townhouse with gorgeous ceilings and period details; and at Pat and Niamh’s where I confess I did very little but lie on the bed and read Harry Potter, go for a walk through the woods, and play Scrabble in the evenings.

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    London

    Hometown
    Our only weekend in London was unsurprisingly social and surprisingly rain free overall. On the Friday night Enric hosted a gathering for us which was lovely – yummy food, thank you! Great to catch up with Siobhan and Neville, Kay, Mellie Mel, Kasia, Jon and Kaska.

    On the Saturday, we went to Grannie’s flat in Maida Vale for the first time and removed the final items she had bequeathed me. It was a practical visit, and certainly it didn’t feel like her home much with most things removed, but it still was very emotional to say goodbye and I cried. We then took the lamps and furniture to their new home in our house. It was great to see how lush the garden is now after all that rain and Mum’s efforts (thank you), and that our tenants are enjoying the house and having lots of fun there.

    Disconcertingly at the bottom of the road Highbury is now a façade shell with War of the Worlds scale cranes looming above all the streets around it. So as ever some things change, while others stay the same.

    Lucy and Rory hosted a party for us at their house in Brixton – THANK YOU – which was super. Terrific to see everybody (a really good turnout) on such good form: children growing, wedding preparations underway for Matt and Marisa, work and business success, holidays and adventures all round. We hung out in the garden until the rain pattered down, ate huge quantities, gossiped and teased. Just like old times.


    On the Sunday we had Sunday lunch with Cindy and Adam, Alex and Sonia, and Zoe and Peter, plus kids. It was also my venerable father’s birthday whom I embarrassed by proposing a toast. A lovely sunny day, after perfect roast chicken we played in the park opposite my parents’ apartment. Hard to tell who were the children at times in our party as the playground provided many creative opportunities for mischief.

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    It's Catching

    Bumps and Babies
    Really it is highly infectious. On a short trip home I saw 5 new babies (Colman also met Finn for the first time) and compare bumps with 5 girlfriends as well as my cousin Jessica who is due the same day as us! It was lovely seeing her and Archie before they moved to Manchester at the end of July. And also spending time with my sister and her family before they move to Pakistan for 2 years at the end of August.




    Proud parents and expectant couples shared their dreams, dreads and delights with us.


    In Dublin we met Roisinn (Tom and Janet) and Fergus (Conor and Valerie).


    In London: Freddie (Catherine and Gary), Theo (Ali & Rado), Aiobhe (Marion and Dan).







    And bumps for Moyra, Flo, Emily, Kasia and Cindy.


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    Restaurant of the Month
    The restaurant at the Dylan in Dublin is the best room in the hotel. Long, white and high ceilinged, with champagne leather-studded walls, it has a wall of French windows dressed in muslin that allows light to pour in from the exterior, whether by floodlights at night, or daylight at day. Tables were traditionally upholstered in white linen, we loved the inventive chandeliers, and furniture was white pearlised leather. We were joined for dinner by friends of Colman’s from teenage years: Kealan, Carol-Ann, Ronan and Rebecca. The food was marvellously presented – the first amuse bouche was a lentil soup with pork belly; my fresh pea soup was as light as a feather and so tasty with a quail egg and smoked bacon to add depth of flavour; which was followed by a pink grapefruit granita palate-cleanser; Colman’s tasting of artichokes would not have looked amiss at a confectioner’s convention; and the final tasting proved to be a jasmine tea, lime, peach and cream froth. Mmmmm.

    Bird of the Month
    For weeks now, we’ve been hearing the liquid inventions of the Northern Mockingbird Mimus polyglottos who sings on 20th St between Guerrero and Valencia, high on rooftops or atop a lofty Norfolk Pine – Colman hears him on the way to work, I on the way to yoga. Sometimes, he (or his cousin) sings in the gardens behind the apartment. Mockingbirds are quite large, a rather nondescript grey and cream, and are renowned for their mimicry and ability to sing unperturbed for hours at a time, continually repeating phrases that vary slightly each time. We have really enjoyed looking out for him and acknowledging the song.

    Stencil of the Month

    Wine Tasting of the Month by Mission Boy
    10 drinkers. 10 bottles of Zinfandel - blind. Black Tongues and Good Laughs.
    Prize Wine Note: ‘its like an old lady rising from a rocking chair with her slip showing.

    Mural of the Month

    Bumper Sticker of the Month
    It’s a planet not an empire.

    Love and hugs Nadine and Colman xxx

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  • Sunday, July 01, 2007

    Tourists and Tahoe

    Dearest Family and Friends

    57 Cumberland Street, San Francisco CA 94110
    Phone Number: +1 415 738 2112
    Nadine 415 595 0023
    Colman 415 871 9920

    Highlights

  • Lucy and Toni
  • Lake Tahoe

    Pregnancy Update
    We are very well and getting our heads around all that is to be done before B-Day – which is only around the corner – yikesarama. We have now got a few things ticked off the shopping list, but many more still to get – thanks Sophia for the cot - my determination to buy as much as possible second hand does take a little longer. Visualisation and relaxing techniques are being practised, swimming twice a week, the latest check ups show a clean bill of health and development all round. Best of all, Colman is coping extremely well with impending fatherhood, particularly concentrating on the excellent list of varietals which require consuming before the birth. This weekend we did a 2 day birth course, and very interesting it was too: graphic videos, hospital interventions, placentas, self-hypnosis, different labour positions tried, a huge volume of information imparted and hopefully we've the tools we need to not panic but make informed choices.

    Lucy and Toni

    Visitors of the Month
    Cousins Lucy and Toni came to stay for a long weekend on their California road trip – LA – Santa Barbara – Big Sur - SF – Tahoe – Mono Lake – Yosemite – LA. It was fabulous to see them. Lovely to be with them showing off San Francisco in happier times than when we last met at Grannie’s funeral.

    On their first (splendidly sunny) afternoon we did a tour of the murals in the Mission district after a picnic in Mission Dolores Park. Balmy Alley has end-to-end murals depicting every aspect of Hispanic culture – social to political to especially San Franciscan.

    Restaurant of the Month
    On Lucy and Toni’s first night we went to Michelin-starred Range, within walking distance of our apartment. Noted for its fresh flavours, and seasonally altered crisp menu, Range has a compact dining room and polished metal tables, a decent wine and cocktail list. In the best Slow Food tradition, flavours are subtle, plates simply and effectively presented. Dishes included halibut with delicate baby vegetables in a light creamy sauce, cod on a bed of beans, a tian of fish with avocado and cucumbers, and dark fluffy chocolate soufflé. Colman had the espresso martini called Fog Lifter (raynol vsop, amaretto, coffee, whip cream). We had a lovely giggly relaxed evening – so so nice to see the girls. (Close contender was new local restaurant, Spork, sampled with Sophia and Gerardo, in a former KFC building, complete with vintage sign, yummy slow cooked pork with mussels, peaches with ricotta and watercress.)

    San Francisco Moments of the Month
    Saturday was initially cloudy; we finally got to tick off a few more of the tourist sights in the city. Especially driving the Lombard Street switchback in Russian Hill. Billed as the ‘world’s crookedest street’ with 10 turns in one block to cope with the 27% slope, you know you’ve come across it when you see the hordes of tourists snapping away top and bottom.

    Followed by Golden Gate Park and it’s beautifully landscaped and planted Japanese Tea Garden, complete with temples, a dome bridge, sculpted arbours, winding paths, zen gravel gardens and green ornamental ponds. We didn’t have time for tea in the pavilion which claims to be where fortune cookies were invented.

    Via Haight-Ashbury we finished with the very busy but fun North Beach Festival with Adam and Jen – which we approached via classic San Franciscan steep hills with long views across to Alcatraz and a visit to Macondray Lane, the inspiration for Barbary Lane in Tales of the City. The festival itself is held in Washington Park – which was divided down the middle into drinking and non-drinking areas; the latter a much less crowded space, where we eventually settled to see the Unofficial Rolling Stones. Boy, they took their performance seriously – and are almost as ancient as the band themselves – complete with a strutting Mick, a stage diving Ronnie Wood, a laid-back Keef, and a drummer who simply refused to try to look like Charlie. We danced (and cartwheeled) to hit after hit until they finished with Satisfaction and we had to walk up that hill…

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    Party of the Month
    We took Lucy and Toni to Russian Hill for a party which played so-bad-its-great 80s music (that night I was kept awake by Living on a Prayer mashing up with Michael Jackson’s Bad in my head – not a fate I would wish on anybody), and my cavorting around the dance floor was slightly curtailed when I mimicked pole-dancing deep down and then found I was rather inelegantly stuck at floor level.

    Sailing Expedition of the Month
    On the Sunday we took Lucy and Toni sailing around the bay with Cap’n Rob. Another stunning day. The winds were much stronger than previous outings. Never mind, Toni proved to be a most experienced sailor and there’s no doubt it was really helpful having her in the boat. We sailed from Sausalito under the Bay Bridge into a calm, and then back into the ‘slot’ (the wind tunnel from the Golden Gate Bridge) before going around Angel Island.

    The long passage across to Angel Island had us heeling over quite a distance which made Lucy feel justifiably nervous and me very uncomfortable as I hung on for dear life with bump making me off balance. Not helped by the winds gusting so much so that the heeling was erratic and there was a clear notion we weren’t really in control of the boat – and my lunch went on the floor. I was roundly teased afterwards because I apparently cried ‘Help!’ at one point, which naturally I have no memory of…

    Eventually we reached more consistent winds and made it back to shore all in one piece, the last third of the journey with some lovely sailing. We finished off a magical and memorable weekend with Lucy and Toni with dinner at Zuni’s, which they unexpectedly and generously treated us (Colman, Rob and I) to – thank you girls!

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    Lake Tahoe

    Expedition of the Month
    Our Adventure this month was to famously blue and clear Lake Tahoe, North America’s largest Alpine lake (22 miles long and 12 wide), nestled in the Sierra Nevada mountain chain directly east of San Francisco. A surprise for Colman, it unfortunately took us 5.5 hours to get there due to rush hour traffic out of the city, so we missed the approach over the mountains into the huge lake valley in daylight. We camped at Emerald Bay, an inlet resembling a fjord (and glacially created) on the Lake’s south-west shore. Our heart sank when erecting the tent (potentially for the last time for a long time) in our pre-booked spot under colossal trees – dogs next door to us, children running around, another party intent on playing the back catalogues of Earth, Wind and Fire and Kool and the Gang. But by 10pm everything was quiet, the stars (and Jupiter and Venus) glistened through stately conifers. We slept despite pillows and bolsters taking up half the space in my already tiny tent.

    The next morning was bright, clear and very dry; the air felt coarse and dusty on the throat. It was a while before we set out to explore Tahoe: we just had to find exactly the right breakfast establishment (all our camp neighbours were cooking up a storm on camp fires and utilising the bear lockers but we were made of weaker stuff). One of Northern California’s quintessential experiences is surely to gaze on the lake’s myriad blues and hues, breezes ruffling the conifers and rippling the waters in synchronicity.

    In the face of busy traffic as the temperatures soared, we played the pregnancy card for only the first time and negotiated our way past roadworks, queues and tourists via aptly named Inspiration Point lookout into DL Bliss State Park. We were alone on the 1.5 mile nature trail which circumnavigated glacial erratic, Balancing Rock, before descending along a stream. Ponderosa and Jeffrey Pines and White Firs gave way to Alders and Willows. Colman is developing an interest in tree identification – harder than you may think – so was examining bark, needles and cones with great enthusiasm.

    Our parking angel showed us a spot just near Lester Cove and for probably the first time ever we hung out on the beach for a couple of hours. Colman was the only person swimming, with a flock of bold Canada geese for company. Apparently it was “cold but no worse than Kerry”. Kayakers, water-skiers, canoeists, inflatable ring riders, pleasure boaters, speed merchants and sailors dotted the lake. The colours changed from aquamarine to azure to turquoise to cobalt to sapphire as your eyes floated towards the opposite shore. Before dinner we took in Eagle Falls. Now most tourists had gone, we could embark on the 1 mile round trip with ease, sitting beside the cascade as it burbled over granite boulders, jagged peaks to our right, the sinking sun on our faces.

    Back to the campsite for a quick brush up before dining out at American Gourmet Café, Evans, which boasts a French-Cal menu and calls itself the finest restaurant in South Lake Tahoe. We stuffed ourselves silly on beautifully tender venison on a bed of root vegetables, scallop quenelles in lobster-sherry sauce, glazed quail, amuse-bouches, halibut in balsamic reduction and a fruit sabayon. Colman drank the best part of a bottle of Napa Cabernet so slept soundly.

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    Walk of the Month
    We struck camp early, and set off from the campground along a part of the Rubicon Trail, traversing the side of Emerald Bay for a 3.5 mile round trip through the woods. For the first 2 hours we didn’t sight another person – bliss. Birds sang all around, the conifers stretched high into the sky, the blues of the lake intensified as the sun arched higher. We saw butterflies feeding in damp granite sand at the shore, vivid green caterpillars suspended from the sky; the forest’s palpable cycle of decay and renewal all around us – most evident in the textured beetle-ridden tree trunks which eventually fall to the ground and rot in wonderful shapes as new growth bursts forth beside.

    We dipped our hands in the clear water as a final talisman before turning back, and headed for San Francisco. And a dream run home of 3.5 hours, very luckily as it turned out because a fierce forest fire broke out just an hour later which closed the roads and destroyed 250 homes and many hectares of forest, before it was finally contained three days later. Turned out it was caused by an illegal campfire south of the Lake, whipped up by strong winds and fuelled by the driest winter since 1988.

    Bird of the Month
    Perhaps because of the heat of summer we saw few birds in Tahoe. However, the walk along the slopes and shores of Emerald Bay on our last morning introduced us to the Pygmy Nuthatch Sitta pygmaea – a mother and two newly fledged chicks, who were very busy among the branches and as the name suggests, are very petite at 4.25”. However, the month’s accolade is for a bird at the other end of the spectrum – the magnificent cream and brown Osprey Pandion haliaetus with a wingspan of 6ft. A couple of hundred yards onwards from the nuthatches we found a big nest of sticks adorning a ramrod straight tall dead pine, and a head and tail intermittently on view as the bird busied itself with chicks. To our excitement, the partner bird arrived in the adjacent dead tree, preened itself all over and dissected a fish. Although I’d seen these unique raptors in Australia, Europe and also in California before, it had not been so close to the nest. Fabulous sighting.

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    Pregnant Ladies of the Month
    It’s clearly catching. Everybody is up the duff. Including my dear friend Jane who came to stay with us for one night while passing through from Napa to San Diego via DC. She is due 10 days after me and we had a wonderful gossipy dinner and catch up. Thanks for the sesame seed recovery operation and invaluable advice Jane!

    And last week we entertained new friends Laurel and Kristan, and their partners John and Steve, while bonding over our impending lifechange. Much merriment, good food, wine, political and baby discussions – a really fun evening.

    Wine of the Month by Mission Boy
    Here’s a tip that will improve your drinking and and save you money: its better to drink a lesser red wine at the right age then a great red wine too young.
    Chateau de Mont Olivet 1998 (shared last week with Sloan visiting from London at a fabulous dinner of sea bass and smoked BBQ duck with Bebe and Ned) is not a famous Chateauneuf du Papes.
    Chateauneufs can be expensive, beloved as they are of the uber-critic Robert Parker. Southern France is Hot. So these tend to be rich, tannic and alcoholic: all indications that they should be left to age.
    But most wine merchants don’t stock old examples of the very top wines and when they do they are very expensive.
    Don’t worry, you don’t need to follow fashion and compete with millionaires. The well-made aged examples give huge pleasure – even when they received lowly scores all those years ago.
    The young wines are like an over-grown teenager. They may be strong and impressive but they are gawky. Big fruit, big flavour but its all disjointed. In 10 years time they too will develop into rounded, integrated ‘iron fist in the velvet glove’ style beauties. They’ll have most of the original fruit but several added layers of secondary flavours.
    Mont Olivet gave us wonderful spice on the nose and meat and burgundy-like undergrowth in the mouth all laid over yummy textural tannins. Stunning.

    Bumper Sticker of the Month
    Check out this number plate we saw in Tahoe - it says it all.

    Love and hugs Nadine and Colman xxx

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