YES WE CAN
Dearest Family and Friends
57 Cumberland Street, San Francisco CA 94110
Phone Number: +1 415 738 2112
November Highlights
Esme
Walking is Where It’s At
She falls over often with a plop, but gets up quickly.
Tiny feet stomping about the apartment, belly out.
Thanks for the shoes Tim and Andi – most useful!
She loves playing with keys, wallets, our DVD collection and telephones, and has called several people already.
And she understands so much now – communication is improving daily.
Aeroplanes catch her attention always.
She’s very vocal if not comprehensible.
Reading books remains at the top of her compulsions.
She’s much more confident in herself and with other people.
And mealtimes are great fun and easy, she’s up for experimenting and trying everything still.
Banging and beating rhythms, trying to sing - we're sure she loves music.
Emotions are clearly writ: here she’s expressing her view that the walk along Tennessee Valley one Saturday in the rain was not at all a matter of retrospective enjoyment. But Kristan and I begged to differ!
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What a Week
The First Week of November
What a Week. How lucky we are to be living in San Francisco at this time!On Saturday 1st November we headed up to Marin, over the bridge, for a Wine Afternoon at Patrick and Catherine’s new place in Fairfax. It was terrific fun; an excellent afternoon. Two wines were being explored: Sauvignon Blanc and Petit Syrah, chosen to accompany oysters and lamb. Everybody contributed, the conversation flew fast and wine was drunk.
Each participant had a portrait photo taken with their wine glass. Patrick wore his 01.20.09 T-shirt, which he’s been sporting for over a year now – the palpable sense of impatience for regime change pervaded the country.
Caroline played with Esme, who loved toddling about the place, and just as I said airily, ‘oh she’s fine on sofas – feet first darling!’ and turned back to resume my point on 
whatever topic was under debate, fell off the sofa spectacularly. No lasting damage.Colman wore his Halloween outfit to get the maximum value out of hiring it, and was quite sozzled by the time we got home. Funny that.
Day of the DeadMexicans mark Día de los Muertos on the 1st and 2nd of November. A spectacular march through the Mission is held on the second evening to mark the end of the festivities.
The celebrations remember friends and relatives who have died, an amalgamation of an Aztec festival with the Christian All Saints’ Day and All Souls’ Day. A fabulous atmospheric Sunday night, empty streets, apart from the procession,
which featured representation from every San Franciscan tribe; people dressed up in ghoulish garb. I was strangely naked in normal street clothes; you can always count on Adam and Jen to be decked out in appropriate attire.The throng featured a group all dressed in red who ‘died’ every 100 yards and came to life again singing Staying Alive, stilt-walkers, a wonderful phantom carriage and drummers dressed as skeletons.
The procession ended at the school playground where shrines to lost loved ones were adorned with candles, marigolds, offerings and poignant notes to the dead.
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A New DawnTuesday 4th November was a stunningly beautiful day. As usual I was up before sunrise to take this picture looking East towards the Berkeley and Oakland hills.
I had a flurry of errands and so Esme and I witnessed queues at the polling stations, everybody sporting ‘I voted’ stickers; flags flying;
strangers engaging each other in conversation on the Muni expressing their hope that we would witness historic, momentous, long overdue and exceedingly welcome change; 
people waving placards at road junctions exhorting us to Vote No on Proposition 8; and a really tangible awareness of a watershed moment.
We spent the day with fellow non-voters Armani and Marcus at the newly reopened California Academy of Sciences, "the only place on the planet with an aquarium, planetarium, and a natural history museum under one living roof." This flagship eco-refurbished building (the only Platinum certified LEED structure) has a 1ha living roof, 90% natural light,
recycled denim wall insulation, and features an albino alligator.
I really thought it was a plastic prop until it moved.
We only had time to see the aquarium, which was Esme’s first. She goggled at the enormous fish tanks and made the signal for bath – yes the fish are having a bath.
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Yes We Can
Election Night
Back at home the first results had started to come in. All pundits playing it carefully, to not jeopardize voter turnout in later time zones. But it was obvious that victory was Obama’s when he won Pennsylvania by 6.20pm PST. I’d kept Esme awake nearly all day in the hope that she’d go to bed early. And by 7 she was shattered, and I galloped downstairs to Tom and Kim’s, taking the monitor with me.
It was truly tremendous. Joined by Adam and Jen, we polished off 4 bottles of champagne, firstly for Jen’s birthday, and then to celebrate the victory, declared rather surreally when the electoral college totals leapt in Obama’s favour, as soon as the California polls closed at 8pm PST.
Colman was working hard that week and made it in the door just in time for the speeches. Apparently I told him off for looking so middle-aged in his jumper; conveniently ignoring the fact that I’d bought it for him last Christmas… McCain’s concession speech was half-an-hour later, Obama’s acceptance speech to 250,000 in Chicago thereafter.“If there is anyone out there who still doubts that America is a place where all things are possible, who still wonders if the dream of our founders is alive in our time, who still questions the power of our democracy, tonight is your answer.
It's the answer spoken by young and old, rich and poor, Democrat and Republican, black, white, Hispanic, Asian, Native American, gay, straight, disabled and not disabled. Americans who sent a message to the world that we have never been just a collection of individuals or a collection of red states and blue states.
We are, and always will be, the United States of America.
It's the answer that led those who've been told for so long by so many to be cynical and fearful and doubtful about what we can achieve to put their hands on the arc of history and bend it once more toward the hope of a better day.
It's been a long time coming, but tonight, because of what we did on this date in this election at this defining moment change has come to America.”
I had tears in my eyes, and a song in my heart. Quick consumption of champagne rendered me completely unable to take in Tom’s erudite dissection of the vagaries of the US system, and comparisons of previous elections. I do recall him telling me such a quick result is pretty unusual.
Tom himself is an elected Director of the BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) and was up for re-election. He seemed remarkably sanguine about the whole process, we found out later he won 84% of the vote, more than Barack Obama in San Francisco (83%), only bested by Mark Leno. Congratulations Tom!
For those who remember the proposal to rename the sewage plant after GWB (hard to even write his name without shuddering), the proposition failed. A good thing as the sewage plant is way more worthy and useful than GWB.
Colman had to go back upstairs to work, so all revved up we (Adam, Jen, Kim and I) charged up to the Castro for dancing in the street - everybody so happy, smiling, texting, taking pictures, waving flags, brandishing placards, swigging champagne.
Definitely the worse for wear now, I recall a nice friend of Adam’s putting me on his shoulders to take more pictures - with sometimes mixed results...
Gay State Senator Mark Leno called the crowd to carry on the fight – at this point it was too close to call for Prop 8 but it wasn’t looking too hopeful – and he was greeted with cheers.
I stumbled back down to home with Kim, babbling 19 to the 12, barely drawing breath, she listened with good grace! I collapsed into bed at about 1, Colman was still up working, and grumbled hard at him when he came to bed at 3am – yes 3 a m – and even harder when he got up at 5.30 to get the early bus, my head was throbbing quite a bit.
Esme woke at 6.15, much to my disgust. I crawled out of bed, changed her nappy, stuck her on the breast, she wanted to read a book but I could only just open the page and stab my finger at pictures, unable to speak. 
An intelligent child, she looked at me askance and decided to amuse herself. I slumped back to bed. She came and found me an hour later wanting breakfast.
This was a bit of an ordeal but I made it through, and dressed her. When the nanny arrived at 9am, a lady I’d met precisely twice in my life before (Lelli was on holiday), I dumped Esme on her and staggered back to bed, calling in too ill from alcohol to work today, for the first (and believe me, last) time in my entire working career. Luckily they were very understanding, calling it a darn good cause!
My father phoned to congratulate me on my new president. I couldn’t even lift my head off the pillow, and spoke single monotonous syllables. My landlord phoned to tell me that they were sanding the floors in the apartment below today – earsplitting machinery being just the ticket.
I had recovered enough by mid-afternoon to watch Oprah, just about my intellectual level by this point, and also very moving. She wore a T-shirt saying Hope Won and related that she was so emotional in the crowd in Chicago the night before (as broadcast to the nation), that she didn’t know who the chap beside her on whose shoulder she’d been weeping was. 
The nanny had to be asked to stay on an extra hour for me to get my act together, by 5.30 I was just about back in the land of the living. Weirdly I don’t recall drinking that much, and the last photos of the night have Jen the teetotaller looking drunker than me…Top
Prop 8
Obama’s Victory Analysis
It was a phenomenal occasion, endorphins rushing, everybody was smiling so much all week, and the world reaction was so gratifying; emotion swells in me as I type. 
Obama is the first bi-racial President, the first born outside the Lower 48, the first to have been born in the 1960s. 
However, soberly there is less cause for optimism. 
He has been handed a poisoned chalice: constrained by a failing global economy, huge disparities of wealth, looming environmental catastrophe, and bitter divisions at home, and sensibly has acted swiftly to dampen the great expectations raised by his great victory. 
Despite a corrupt and discredited ruling administration headed by an almost universally despised President, despite the worst financial crisis in 70 years, and a flawed and ageing opponent, and even Obama’s own manifestly superior talents, (calm rational thinking, powerful rhetoric and ability to connect to all levels of Americans and 
mobilize an effective grass roots campaign [he spent $9.67/vote cast for him]), he still secured only 52% of the popular vote, although at 62m that is more votes than any other Presidential candidate in history, and less 30% of US counties. 46% of Americans didn’t vote for him, and 60m voted for McCain (who spent $6.33/vote), a reminder how conservative a place America really is. Prop 8 Demo
Even in California, the touchstone for progressive legislation and social change, Proposition 8, which wanted to enshrine in the constitution the definition of marriage as a union between a man and a woman, actually passed, horrifying our friends and neighbours.
It was some comfort that the margin of victory was so tight (52:48), when originally polls showed the Yes camp to have been 15 points ahead. (Both camps spent a fortune on TV spots, newspaper advertising and viral marketing – it is one of the most expensive ballot measures ever seen in the US – totalling over $73m.)
And also that Obama mentioned both gay and straight in his acceptance speech. Also that America’s first openly gay Congressman was elected – in Colorado of all places. And various ballot measures around the country to restrict abortion rights failed.
However, the resulting anger and upset in the community took the shine off the Obama victory for many of us, particularly the DLG.
On the evening Friday 7th November a demo against the passage of Prop 8 ended up in Dolores Park. I shot down there for 20 minutes to join in the chanting and take pictures. 
Traffic stopped, shouting was loud, emotions very high. Many blamed the Mormon church who had donated large sums to the Yes campaign and stirred up a campaign of hate and homophobia.
We hosted Jason and Jim for dinner that night to congratulate them on their marriage (which still stands) along with Amy and Akhil; 
Colman finally able to relax after his extreme week of work so became rather excitable and drunken. What a week.Demo
The following weekend we took Esme to City Hall for the demonstration against the measure passing, one of many that occurred throughout the state. We joined Jason and Jim, Jen, Jen and Amy.
It was a ferociously hot day for November, Esme wilted in the sunshine. She clapped when the crowd clapped, was fascinated by the banners and loved walking through the forest of legs. 
Many speeches were very inspiring. Legal challenges have been issued against the measure. December 10th was designated the No Gay for a Day - homosexuals urged to get ‘Lavender Flu’ and not work in protest.
There are calls to boycott Sundance as it is held in Utah,
to boycott cinema chains whose owner donated to the Yes campaign; the director of the LA Film Festival was forced to resign after donating to the Yes campaign. Funny or Die produced this three minute mini-musical, starring Jack Black among others, which says it all really:Prop 8 The Musical
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Film
Film of the Month
It’s that Awards season time again when I have to see as many films as possible to vote for the BAFTAs. This happily coincides with autumnal evenings and our propensity for staying in 5 nights a week.
The Visitor is a thoughtful film about communication, immigration and passion, a poised central performance from Richard Jenkins. I took Colman to both Frost/Nixon - fabulous period detail, superb performance by Frank Langella as Nixon, and a great example of how to turn a play into a compelling film 
(thanks Adam & Jen for babysitting) – and Slumdog Millionaire. Vibrant, visceral and very fantastical, this tells how a chai wallah boy from the slums of Mumbai wins the prize on TV’s biggest quiz show because he knows the answers. Minor plot holes only bubbled up when analyzing the film later on, we loved the ride, the music, Dev Patel’s beautifully underplayed lead, and its condemnations and celebrations of humanity. Film Event of the Month
My favourite film EVER is Some Like it Hot which played at the Castro Theatre featuring a personal appearance and interview with the legend that is Tony Curtis . An event not to be missed; throughout the film I had a grin ear to ear. It was the first time I’d seen it on the big screen – sheer bliss – and it benefitted from being shown in the Castro: when Daphne comes back from her night tangoing with Osgood shaking her maracas, and 
Joe/Josephine demands ‘why would a guy marry a guy?’ and the answer is ‘security!’, it brought the house down.Tony didn’t disappoint: he related how Marilyn 'ground him like coffee’ through every take in the seduction scene on the boat and how her insecurities killed her in the end; that he used to be the celebrity couple du jour when married to Janet Leigh; that he knew every ethnic actor from growing up in the Bronx; he touched on the death of this son through heroin; referred to the great sex life he still has at 83 with his 5th wife, and wore a big white Stetson.
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Thanksgiving
Seasonal Event of the Month
To Dan and Dayna’s as last year – we were 11 to lunch. 
We did know what to expect but still managed to gorge ourselves to an obscene extent. There were cinnamon roasted sweet potatoes, succulent organic turkey, two kinds of cranberry sauce, creamed potatoes, mushroom stuffing, home-baked cheese biscuits. 
After three helpings, I was then confronted with pudding – a slice each of pumpkin pecan cheesecake and cherry pie: it was physically impossible for me to eat another mouthful. But mind can overcome matter – it took an hour but I did force every crumb down. Well it’s the principle of the thing.
Dan and Dayna were very kind in allowing Esme to attend She was an angel at dinner, especially when she then went to sleep like a lamb and didn’t wake until we went home.
After dinner Adam, Dan and Maia retired upstairs to the pool room for selections from Adam’s Big Book of Rock songbook. When the others rejoined us they expressed surprise at the lack of a Colman in our choir. Further investigation revealed my beloved resting his eyes on the chaise longue. Time for Bed… Thanks Dan and Dayna – a superb feast and a special day.
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Clear Skies in Clear Lake
Expedition of the MonthThe day after Thanksgiving, bright and sunny, we drove North 2.5 hrs along Highway 101, then turning right and twisting over the hills to reach Clear Lake, the largest lake completely in California (Tahoe straddles Nevada).
Lakeport is a classic rural lakeside American town whose visitors are mostly domestic, and whose season is summer.
We arrived on Black Friday – the day traditionally when Americans shop in record numbers. So, when in Rome. We strolled along Main Street, one block from the lakeshore, with its sponsored lampposts, vacant lots, hobbyist shops (including Strings and Things for all things guitar; one lady offered dolls of the world along with waxing) and lake glimpses.
Two blocks hold the original late 19th-century buildings: former banks now house vintage and ‘heritage’ wares; windows were Christmas-decorated within an inch of their lives (useful for keeping Esme amused); the requisite Chinese never seemed to have any customers; most popular being the obligatory Irish pub where we dined. Skies were clear affording us stellar views of the conjunction of Jupiter and Venus. Our comfy room (decked in mostly tasteful Victoriana) in the Arbor House Inn had a maroon triangular Jacuzzi so every night we had a family bath which was great fun, then straight to bed by 8 for Esme and 9 for us. Our hosts were very laid back, and delightful with Esme – delicious breakfasts too (waffles with maple syrup and bacon one morning, spinach and ham frittatas the other) – which was a relief after we popped in to the original choice B&B to visit their Christmas Fayre. Colman’s face was a picture when confronted with no fewer than four rooms of Christmas decorations and a Rockin’
Around the Christmas Tree perpetual soundtrack.Clear Lake State Park
Clear Lake itself was idyllic. Framed by dormont Konocti volcano to the south-east, and edged by hills lit russet by the setting sun, the water mirrored the late autumnal shimmering skies we enjoyed all weekend. Coverts of coot, solitary grebes lithely flip-diving into the depths, cackling ducks with their V-shaped take-off and landing ripples, and the occasional motor boat, were all that disturbed the still waters.
On the Saturday, we had a blissful time in Clear Lake State Park. Tobacco-hued leaves relinquished their hold on the stem and fluttered down around us; turkey vultures wheeled in thermals above; all the campsites bar one were deserted.
From the bridge we watched grebes fishing with aplomb, drank in the sight of the rich autumnal colours on the bank reflected in the still waters below.
A lake beach presented Esme with an opportunity to commune with pebbles while camouflaged killdeer probed the silica for sustenance beside us. 
Our walk took us high up overlooking Soda Bay and back towards Lakeport through shaded meadows, mixed woods especially oak rich with berries and lichen, and open country. 
I demonstrated cartwheels to Esme who looked suitably impressed until a pile of leaves proved more fascinating. It was amazingly warm. Not a cloud in the sky.
Esme was so alive to this world preparing itself for regeneration all around she held off from napping in the backpack for hours. By the time she did fall asleep we were nearly back at the car park, Colman met a fabulous New Age lady of a great many years (a War Bride originally from London) who took one look at sleeping Esme and proclaimed her to be either a 
Rainbow or a Crystal child from another star whose destiny is to bring us great joy and amazing energy and spirituality to this world. Our thoughts exactly.We spent late afternoon perambulating through Lakeport’s
4th Annual Dickens Christmas Market where Main St was blocked to traffic, a small stage hosted local musical talent, Santa’s Workshop did a busy trade, stallholders were clad in top hats and crinolines. What would Scrooge have made of the snowboards and extraordinary number of plastic trinkets for sale? We travelled back via the lake, Esme getting very excited by dogs, ducks, and a gaggle of geese feeding on the water meadow. 
On our final morning, she woke just before dawn, and we went down to the lake to see the sun casting its dazzling light on the water, and bustling waterbirds. She loved playing with the leaves and had to be dissuaded forcefully from walking into the lake. While she napped, Colman and I took it in turns for private sojourns beside the lake; his of a far deeper and poetic nature, while I wielded camera and binoculars and wrestled with identifications: Common or Red-Breasted Merganser, Clark or Western Grebe?
The perfect restful lovely weekend away.
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Bird of the Month
Hard to choose one out of so many. We saw over 30 different species in Clear Lake, not bad considering it wasn’t during the breeding, chick-feeding nor migration season. A close contender for the accolade this month was the Albino Horned Grebe I saw on my last morning in Lakeport,
but I didn’t have my telephoto lens so couldn’t do justice to this rather beautiful freak of nature.Similarly, the sheer volume of American Coots and their shoal-like behaviour put them into contention.
But the prize goes to the clown-faced, red-topped Acorn Woodpecker Melanerpes formicivorus sighted in Clear Lake State Park, for demonstrating it’s USP so beautifully.
This bird lives in oak woods and spends hours whittling out holes in branches, usually on one tree known as the Granary Tree, to store acorns. We saw trunks literally studded with acorns and woodpeckers drumming away with huge purpose; apparently some ‘granaries’ can hold as many as 50,000 acorns. 
Mural of the MonthStencil of the Month
Only in San Francisco is the graffiti so right on...Bumper Sticker of the Month
Our National Health Plan: Don’t Get Sick
Love and hugs
Nadine, Colman and Esme xxx
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