GRAND, GRANDER, GRANDESTDearest Family and Friends
57 Cumberland Street, San Francisco CA 94110
Phone Number: +1 415 738 2112
April Highlights10:10
Material ShiftsWe have made various lifestyle commitments as a family in 2010 including being creative about energy saving, going virtual when amassing media and music, and becoming Localvores.
Our energy usage last month didn't reduce as much as the previous month (probably due to a very damp spring, and Esme now requiring a nightlight in her room) with only a 2% electricity reduction year on year, but pleasingly we managed a 15% reduction on gas consumption.
On the latter point, evidence is mounting that buying organic and local foodstuffs wherever possible is beneficial for humans, vertebrates, insects and thus the entire food chain.
But for this month we’re thinking about the curse of plastic. It is so convenient, durable, universal, ubiquitous, useful, adaptable, colourful, throwaway … and doesn’t biodegrade or recycle – it only downcycles, releasing toxins at each stage of the process.
And the are becoming too grave to ignore. Whether one accepts the theory of global warming or not, no one can argue against the case that pollution is poisoning the planet. 
As shown all too appallingly by the recent oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico.And I found this heart-rending photo of a young albatross, killed by the contents of its stomach.
Declare War on Plastic!
One of the biggest polluters is plastic - in terms of oil extraction, manufacture, disposal and decay.
I now make many conscious decisions to NOT buy items because they are packaged in plastic – rather than glass or biodegradable containers.
It is possible to live without introducing disposable plastic into one’s home – especially with the advent of biodegradable plastic bags in San Francisco, we never leave home without a shopping bag anyhow – but it is extremely hard to so do – and plastic does have its uses of course, not least with regards to food preservation.
So all foodstuffs and household items are now purchased with both plastic and local in mind (which led to a big dilemma when buying a new kitchen scourer/sponge recently: should one go for the entirely biodegradable item packaging in card and some plastic wrapping, designed in Colorado and manufactured in Mexico, or the 80% post-consumer waste product distributed in California but with no mention of where produced and ignoring the fact that it would not easily disintegrate in landfill??I went for the former.
A few measures undertaken: my night creams were bought in glass jars rather than plastic (which required Felicity to purchase them on my behalf in Covent Garden, thanks darl!); our local shop – the marvellous Bi-rite - has all its deli items in compostable containers; we only purchase milk when in cartons not plastic (Esme has been known to get watered-down milk when we run low if the right shops aren’t open); 
and, oh joy of joys!, I recently discovered Green 11, in Noe Valley. This shop is where you take your containers for organic beauty and cleaning products to be refilled.
Such a good idea, and now we will be reusing existing containers rather than buying new ones. They replenish their containers from local Bay Area manufacturers thus minimising waste and landfill.
So by using organic, compostable, and local products wherever possible, we can do our bit to
Reduce, Reuse, Recycle!
Top
Visitor of the Month - Catherine
Eating, Drinking and Being Merry
There’s nothing like having folks in town as an excuse for gluttonous and dipsomaniac behaviour.
And Easter weekend is always Bacchanalian, as we break both fasts and good intentions.
So from Good Friday onwards, we had an extremely busy 10 days of eating and drinking, kicking off with a truly gourmet dinner with downstairs neighbours, Bogie and Saal, plus Tom and Kim.
On Easter Saturday I took Esme to the Stern Grove Easter egg hunt with Geoff, Armani and Marcus, where the kids collected plastic eggs in a pen (which their parents threw back), stroked some goats, watched a lively band perform, get stuck into ribs and BBQ sauce, and bounce in an inflatable castle.
That night commenced the weeklong visit of dear friend, Catherine, last seen on Boxing Day in London.
When she had met our other very dear friend, Morgan, and the two have formed a very exciting romantic liaison.
So we welcomed her with dinner.
And had a very yummy brunch with her the following day – Easter Day.They went to see the Hunky Jesus Contest (it being Easter Day) before rejoining us for dinner with Adam, Jen, Geoff and Armani.
We had a night off carousing on the Monday (I eschewed the glass of wine Colman kindly offered me at supper) – which isn’t a public holiday in the States – before the four of us resuming on Tuesday with dinner at Range, a Michelin-starred local restaurant featuring contemporary Californian cuisine plus killer cocktails.
On the Wednesday, downstairs neighbour Tom’s brother Wes, niece Milla and mother Rose, all up from LA, joined us for dinner and drinks.
Thursday, I took Catherine to meet the DLG, where we got suitably merry and toasted all and sundry. Returning home to find Colman sloshed on the sofa with Morgan keeping him company.
Friday, the four of us (Colman had to work and joined us later) headed off first thing to Inverness in Point Reyes to stay with Dave and Cathy for a night, popping in to Patrick and Catherine en route.It was the most gorgeous day. Really superb.
And after a leisurely lunch on the deck with Cathy, we headed for Limantour Beach, Point Reyes Station where Esme and I had the most perfect time together, looking out for seagulls, taking photos, making sandcastles, watching the Brant Geese fly in formation up the coast, counting the waves.
While Catherine and Morgan went for a long blissful stroll.
Colman arrived in time for dinner, created by Morgan with Cathy supplying pudding. Unfortunately Esme developed a full on cold and was tired, as she hadn’t napped, and no doubt reacting to our busy schedule, or being in someone else’s house, she lost it and had hysterics for a very unsettling 20 minutes before calming down, and later sleeping all night.
Thanks everybody for reacting so graciously!
Colman and Morgan went stargazing on the roof.Breakfast became brunch in Point Reyes, where another large portion of food slipped down all too easily.
And then we said goodbye to Catherine, I cried heaps of course.
So excellent to have had such quality time with a close girlfriend of longstanding.
Come back and see us soon!
Top
Visitors of the Month – Sandy and Celia
SaturdayWe hot-footed it back from Inverness to meet up with more friends from London: Sandy and Celia - who were doing a big round the world jaunt which had taken them to Japan, Australia and now California.
They stayed in our place while we were in Point Reyes, Colman took them up to Twin Peaks to look at the views.
Then I took them on the Mission Murals tour – a rather bracing one given the annoyingly inclement weather, which was not showcasing San Francisco at its best.
And that night we hosted a very jolly dinner with Rob and Jecca. 
They brought their charming boys – Billy and Luca - with them. Who played very well with Esme and then pretended to go home so we could get her into bed.
Really entertaining, a terrific evening.
Sunday
Unfortunately it poured with rain most of the day. We went to the Academy of Sciences, along with half of San Francisco, and Esme, for one, had a great time in the rainforest biome and the aquarium.
Then we splashed over the way to the de Young for lunch and a stroll around the permanent exhibits.Finally the rain eased off and we drove over the Golden Gate Bridge for views back to the city from Marin Headlands.
We rounded off our extremely convivial time together with dinner at Slanted Door restaurant at the Ferry Building, with views over the Bay and Bay Bridge.
Thanks so much for coming to see us! We miss our London friends!But it wasn’t a moment too soon for my waistline and liver.
I was on the wagon for the next week and a half to recover!
Top
Adventure of the Month
Grand Canyon – Day One
We flew over coast, mountain, desert and inland sea to Phoenix, which surprised us by its size (turns out to be the 5th largest city in the US and one of the biggest by land area). From Phoenix we drove North, through cacti-studded hills and wide open rolling lands under little fluffy clouds towards snow-capped Humphreys Peak (the highest point in Arizona just beside Flagstaff), before crossing over nostalgic Route 66 to Interstate 40 and finally turning off to Tusayan, the resort town closest to the south entrance.
Esme was thrilled to see so many helicopters, especially when the GPS directed us to the heliport rather than our hotel destination. We checked into the (somewhat less enticing than it sounds) Red Feather Lodge, whose one-storey lift Esme took great interest in, then beetled off for our first sight of the Canyon – in time for sunset.Excitingly for Esme, a small herd of deer were grazing at the viewpoint. She fixated on them, while we gaped at the sight before us.
The hazy sun illuminated swirling bands of cinnamon, cumin, cayenne and turmeric, across peaks and troughs, gulleys and gashes, gorge and rim. Fittingly, the buttes and peaks are spiritually named: Cheops Pyramid, Walhalla Overlook, Hindu Amphitheater, Wotan’s Throne, Krishna Shrine, Venus Temple.
All this splendour brought my vertigo into sharp focus, no more so than when Esme was near the edge. Pleasingly, the canyon rim isn’t fenced off with annoying DANGER signs everywhere, so one can just stare at the awesome magnificence at one’s feet without distraction. But having a 2.5yo running around with odd random contrary moodswings thrown in the mix, was not conducive to the appreciation of nature’s glories.And by now tired and cranky, she didn’t appreciate the Canyon's marvels with quite the same reverence as her annoying parents who kept urging and coaxing her to stay on the path, and to keep quiet to preserve the sunset moment for other onlookers.
Still, she can now identify the Grand Canyon across a wide spectrum of artistic endeavour - every motel, cafe, diner, truckstop and lobby had representations that span the gamut from lurid to lush.
Grand Canyon – Day Two
An overcast morning, we drove to the Grand Canyon Village, parked up, and tackled the Bright Angel Trail.
Originally built by the Havasupai Native American tribe, the 9.3 mile trail descends 4380 feet to the Colorado River with an average grade of 10%. 
We modestly proposed to climb down to the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse and return.
Esme was in the backpack and on the whole faired pretty well. Although she had an “accident” on the descent managing to soak Colman’s only pair of trousers. 
The trail is trod by mule trains who take riders down to the river and back the following day.
But our great fascination was seeing the remarkable and unparalleled geological timeline unfold as we descended – nearly 2 billion years of history has been exposed by the Colorado River over (it is estimated) only the last 6 million years or so.
Our guidebook taught us this useful mnemonic: Know The Canyon's History, Study Rocks Made By Time.
* Know -- Kaibab Limestone (250 Million Years Old)
* The -- Toroweap Formation (255 Million Years Old)
* Canyon's -- Coconino Sandstone (260 Million Years Old)
* History -- Hermit Shale (265 Million Years Old)
* Study -- Supai Formation (285 Million Years Old)
* Rocks -- Redwall Limestone (335 Million Years Old)
* Made -- Muav Limestone (515 Million Years Old)
* By -- Bright Angel Shale (530 Million Years Old)
* Time -- Tapeats Sandstone (545 Million Years Old)
Under the Tapeats lies the Vishnu Schist, which is 1.2bn years old.
And as the Grand Canyon is incised into an elevated plateau and its arid climate precludes blanketing vegetation, the rock strata are revealed in all their glory.
We reckon we got down as far as the Supai Group, with the Redwall Limestone just below us, at the Resthouse, where we all stopped for a toilet break – my vertigo came into play again envisioning the NIGHTMARE that a combination of the long drop toilet and Esme could become…The topography changed dramatically in our short 1.5 mile descent. At the top were Ponderosa Pines, the stony hillsides support Pinyon and Juniper, with more scrubby bushes and barren slopes below.
Snowdrifts, and by extension, snowmelt were still present in the permanently shaded overhangs.
One woman muttered to me that the rivulets in the middle of the path weren’t water but mule piss; I was more wary thereafter.
At the Resthouse I got into conversation with two chaps painfully making their way back up having overnighted in the Canyon gorge. They were of the opinion it wasn’t all that great, sweating under the load of their packs.
Below us were the dark green bushes of Indian Garden where Garden Creek flows. You can see the trail clearly traversing the plateau below, before it finally plunges into the depths. 
Our ascent wasn’t as painful as we expected it to be. Yes the switchbacks and gradient were steep, but this is the Grand Canyon for chrissakes! And we were lucky we did the trail on an overcast day.
As we neared the rim, the clouds parted and the sun broke through, Jesus rays illuminating the folds, dips, jagged outcrops and buttes, and above all, those bands of colourful geology. 
We ended our afternoon pottering about on the south rim, gazing at the view, admiring heritage turn of the century buildings, listening to a ranger talk on California Condors (see below), Esme amusing herself by trying to see through the telescope, dining early in the Arizona Room.
We then drove out to Yaki Point getting there just in time for sunset. 
The colours were soft and warm, with just enough clouds for some drama; shadows deepening between rifts and spurs providing a perspective on the distances and depths – the brain doesn’t really compute the extraordinary details presenting. We bade the Canyon a fond farewell in the gloaming.Grand Canyon – Day Three
We woke to aching pins (none of us getting any younger) and a brilliantly sunny warm day - a turn up considering it had been snowing 6 days prior. 
Colman had a date with the fossil talk and walk at 9.30, Esme and I tagged along. The walk ended in a stony patch just past the Bright Angel Trailhead. We resolved to stroll along as much of the Rim Trail westwards as we could. No cars are now permitted along Hermit Road, a frequent shuttle bus service stops at lookouts and viewpoints.
The walk started badly with a mutinous Esme refusing to go in the backpack, and then once in peeing all over Colman’s back again. The joys of fatherhood!
So we took some time out and read Mr Silly , I squinted at birds. And sat in the shade looking at ants.
Eventually we got to the first overlook – Maricopa Point. Far below us were the Bright Angel Trail and the Indian Gardens. Poor souls doing that today in the heat.Esme regained her humour and sang to herself as we walked along.
The vistas altered as we rounded Hopi Point and the Canyon opened up to the west. We got onto the shuttle bus at Mohave Point, somewhat crestfallen by our lack of stamina (we had barely walked 2 miles), but I was relieved not to have been walking alongside aptly named The Abyss.
We got out at Pima Point from where we could see the Colorado River below for the first time. Through binoculars I could see rafters below on the rapids, only just visible with the naked eye.
Here Esme sang and danced for us at the bus stop. 
We traded off: one of us filling our eyes and souls with the great grand beauty before us, the other smiling at the little beauty before us.
Before Colman expired with hunger and heat, we reached Hermits Rest, the end of the line, and bought sandwiches.We wanted to do the beginning of the Hermits Trail, which takes you down to the Canyon floor and Colorado River, but Esme protested so vigorously that we took turns.
The trail carves round the side of a hanging valley before traversing another larger one then descending to the valley floor. 
The vegetation was very different to the Bright Angel Trail, the path was slidey-stoney underfoot.
I had a wonderful 45 minutes of solitude, conquering my vertigo in incremental stages by inching out to a rocky outcrop, trying to allow my brain to triumph over the mind when facing the vast valley wall opposite sheering down into the shadows.
A California Condor drifted overhead. The heat rendered the valleys silent.I returned to a grubby Esme playing happily in the dust, she and I took photos (she’s getting pretty good!), read the bird book, and listened to the party of Danes chattering next to us (every European nationality was at the Canyon while we visited, especially the Germans).
And then back on the shuttle bus home.
We all needed a tripartite bath and extensive application of aloe vera lotion – that sun was fierce.
Grand Canyon – Day Four
Packed up early, and following a tip off in the guide book, headed eastwards to Shoshone Point. Deliberately kept low key (it is used as a wedding venue, the trailhead is unmarked), the trail winds through the Ponderosa Pine upland forest before coming out to a picnic area.We saw one other family and one couple all morning.
But the Point itself is stunning. It juts out into the Canyon allowing 270º views from the Tonto Platform round the Zoroaster Canyon to Wotans Throne via the Ottoman Amphitheater and Granite Gorge.
You access the tree-topped point by steps cut into the rock, which take you to a limestone platform with obelisk. The other family showed us the way, I faltered and so hung out with Esme at the picnic area while she sang, danced and took photos.Colman stayed out on the point and took this excellent series of panoramic shots. Not a soul in sight.
He also had his Grand Canyon Moment. Cut short by the realisation I would be losing my mind, so returned just as I was planning his memorial service.
I decided I had to do it. And crawled on my belly as far as the limestone platform, placing my hand upon it.
My 270º view was somewhat marred by the bushes in my immediate vicinity, so was forced to gingerly rise to my feet, cast a hurried look around, and walked carefully, eyes glued to the ground, to safety.We drove out along the Desert View Drive eastwards stopping off at Grandview (which once rivalled Bright Angel for Colorado River access) and Lipan Points to take photos, dashing back in to the car.
Our final stop was at Desert View where we left a slumbering Esme in the car, ran to the overlook, saw the Palisades of the Desert, dashed back to the car and drove out of the National Park.
I was reminded of my previous visit to the Grand Canyon in 1993 with Stuart on the exit road. Then, there were no shuttle buses and extensive car parks. We barely saw another soul and had explored the wonders of this part of the world for over a week.
And now, desolate and windswept Native American communities are still eking out a living in the desert, unpatronised roadside stalls flew tattered Navajo and Stars and Stripes flags. And we saw very little traffic in the Arizona wilderness of the Navajo Indian Reservation. I wanted to revisit more of this beautiful landscape.We caught a glimpse of the Little Grand Canyon, stopped for petrol in Cameron where the gas station shop had a notice forbidding three local citizens (identified by first name only) from entry. I was one of two white people in the shop.
The 64 turned into the Interstate 89 and we drove steadily to Phoenix. Esme and I read stories and played games in the back of the car. She fooled me completely by pretending she had swallowed by engagement ring. I genuinely believed her, was on the verge of tears, and then found it under her leg. Little frog!
A brilliant adventure!
Top
Party On
DLGVery sadly, but for good reasons (Geri has a great new job!), Amy and Geri moved to San Diego.
So we had to farewell Amy B, one of the leading lights of the DLG, in style.
Jason arranged a going away gift of a silver platter inscribed DLG – natch.
And there was hardly a dry eye in the house… Come back soon Amy and Geri, we miss you already!
Little Tilden Farm Trip
Perfect spring outing with Esme's school, we fed cows, goats and sheep with lettuce and celery. 
Esme was scared of the cows' ginormous tongues but got closer to the sheep and goats.
Kim’s PartyKim has lived in Cumberland Street for 20 years – no small achievement – and threw an afternoon garden party on the last weekend of April - most fittingly, given how much work she has put in to creating the work of art that is our shared back yard.
Friends from near and far, young and old, came to celebrate.
There was a bristle of beards.
And Sophia, Gerardo and Ava stopped by, which was great fun.
Ava was so good with Esme, they hung out together for ages in our apartment while their parents got sloshed downstairs, Ava even emptying the potty it turned out!
And we finished the evening off with a house photo.Jen’s Supper Club
That night, Phu hung out with Esme and put her to bed, while Colman and I went to dinner at near neighbour (and work colleague of Colman) Jen Moyse’s inaugural supper club.
A suggestion made by us (prompted by entirely selfish interests), Jen effortlessly and informally produced a stunning three-course meal plus delectable appetisers for a 10-strong lively and ravenous crowd.Appetisers: fava beans with two pecorino cheeses, plus home-made Spanish chorizo with sherry vinegar, Pt Reyes Blue-stuffed dates, caponata, and radishes with salted butter
First course : cicatelli pasta with roasted cauliflower, broccoli, and homemade pancetta (she had actually bought a portion of pig and home cured it, creating all manner of sausages and cured meats)
Main : superbly roasted pork shoulder accompanied by roasted asparagus with tarragon mustard and pistachios, plus roasted potatoes and garlic, and peperonata
Pudding (crowning glory): tangerine semifreddo with salted almond brittle and tangerine sauce. To die for.She got a mate to make pre-dinner cocktails with "navy-strength rum" and Sazerac rye, among other things; Colman, the sommelier, provided a wine for each course and segue.
Looking forward to this becoming a regular Supper Club fixture! Thanks so much Jen.
Sunset Party aka China Camp State Park
The next morning – a cloudless still Sunday - I went birding in Bodega Bay – see below – and arranged to meet up with Colman, Esme, Gerardo, Sophia and Ava, and hoped to see other friends including Adam & Jen, at the first Sunset Party of the season, in the mid-afternoon.
3,000 were expected at this free outdoor rave set beside a lake in Novato, Marin.
By the time we turned up, double the estimated number had too, so after queuing for ages and walking along the verge of the road, we threw in the towel, reasoning that it would all be too busy in there, and not ideal for the kids.
So Sophia & Gerardo suggested China Camp State Park in San Rafael, which nestles along the shores of San Pablo Bay, and turned out to be a fabulous alternative.
Ava got acquainted with my spotting scope.She and Esme roamed around the lush grass, listening to the geese honking loudly on yonder island.
The adults lazed around on this stunning spring day.
We finished up at a Puerto Rican diner in San Rafael.
Fun busy party weekend!
Top
Bird of the Month
A bumper month for birding, spring is here!Grand Canyon
After we resurfaced from the Bright Angel Trail, we chanced upon a well-informed ranger talk on North America’s largest land bird, the California Condor Gymnogyps californianus, which described the recent heart-warmingly successful conservation programme that has brought the vulture back from the brink. From a low of 22 in 1987, a captive breeding programme has seen numbers rise to 349, of which 180 now live in the wild.
Newly-hatched chicks are kept in a cage covered with black cloth and fed by hand – disguised by condor puppet to prevent human imprinting. Esme was deeply fascinated by the photos and props, including the puppet, passed round for our edification. 
Our day was complete when about an hour later, six condors drifted over the rim looking for carrion; one perched on an outcrop below the gift shop for photographic purposes. Such excitement!And both Colman and I saw them separately on subsequent days.
By the end of our weekend, Esme was able to identify California Condor from Turkey Vulture!Normally a sure-fire winner for the Bird of the Month, but for the fact that they’ve already received this accolade, as we had seen them (albeit at less close quarters), in the Pinnacles last May.
Colman asked me to predict how many Life (new) birds I’d see on our Arizona adventure and I predicted three; it turned out to be five, if you include the Gray-headed Dark-eyed Junco, a sub-species.
The most vivid was the blue-grey and uncommon Pinyon Jay, only found in pinyon pine forests, sighted on my solo Hermit Trail effort. Just as I was muttering to myself about the lack of birds on this hot, breathless afternoon, a chattering flock swooped high above my head, coming to rest in trees.
Both the Virginia’s Warbler Vermivora virginiaeI and the Black-throated Sparrow Amphispiza bilineata were glimpsed on the Bright Angel Trail – just enough to see their distinctive markings.
And on our last idyllic morning walking to and from Shoshone Point through open forest, I thought, this is prime woodpecker territory.
And, at last, deliberately dawdling behind Colman and Esme, the Northern Flicker Colaptes auratus hove into view, uncharacteristically high on a bare tree, master of all he surveyed – normally they forage on the ground for ants, unique among woodpeckers.Point Reyes Birding Festival
On the last Sunday of April, I took part in this inaugural weekend festival, which had a full programme of talks, walks and slide shows. I signed up for Birding in Bodega Harbor and Bodega Bay, and booked a zipcar at 8am for a 9am start.Once the satnav was plugged in, I realised my calculations were out by half-an-hour, so thrashed it up the freeway, got to the rendezvous at 9.40, tyres spraying gravel, just in time to carpool before they moved on round the harbour. Phew!
It was a brilliant morning’s birding, even though I’m dangerously near the other participants in age these days (this hobby always used to make me feel young). We saw 45 different species, from the inner harbour to the rocky cliffs, of which two were new Life Birds for me.
We saw a seal attacking and severely wounding a Brant Goose Branta bernicla - several in the group were very squeamish watching the bird struggle for life. This picture shows one of the many skeins of Brants flying up the coast in their characteristically straggly U-shaped formations two weeks prior when we were sunning ourselves on Limantour Beach, Point Reyes.We saw loons really close – both Red-throated and Common proving my field identifications from last month – as well as grebes, willets, marbled godwits, cormorant and ducks. My favourite, the Osprey, searched and swooped overhead.
The only disappointment was that our time on Bodega Head didn’t coincide with the Gray Whales passing offshore. But I helped spot and identify the rare and well-camouflaged Surfbird Aphriza virgata and Wandering Tattler Heteroscelus incanus both of whom roamed around the spray-tossed outcrops picking out prey, bobbing and searching, bright yellow legs distinctive against the mottled rocks.
The Tattler is solitary, the Surfbird hangs out in a small loose group; we gazed down upon them, me conquering my vertigo to crane over the edge.
This month’s joint winners!
Top
Mural of the Month
This was taken on Church Street in the Castro.
But for a master of the art, check out this video of the recent crop of Banksy artwork that has appeared in San Francisco – the one entitled ‘This’ll Look Nice When Its Framed’ was two blocks from us.
Was because it was painted over in short order!
Stencil of the Month
Bumper Sticker of the Month
If You Can’t Trust Me With A Choice, How Can You Trust Me With A Child?
